Tweed, diamond quilts, and interlocking double-Cs are among some of the most inimitable house codes associated with the house of Chanel. Since the label debuted in 1910, its offerings have become an object of desire for the fashionably inclined, beloved by everyone from Jackie O to Princess Diana and Lady Gaga alike. This is especially true of classic Chanel bags, with their timeless appeal easily making them indispensable wardrobe staples.
The appeal of a classic Chanel handbag continues to endure well into modern fashion and consumer demand is likely to remain generally undeterred, despite the label’s continued practice of annual price increases. In fact, it has been reported that the label will be hiking up prices across a few key bag styles again this month by another 11% to 14%, further cementing their exclusivity by a considerable margin.
How Chanel handbags became an enduring part of fashion history
What exactly contributes to the mystique of Chanel’s covetable handbags, you ask? The answer is twofold, with the first part being attributed to their history and heritage. Most, if not all Chanel bags can trace many of their key motifs back to one specific progenitor: the Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag. Designed by founder Coco Chanel in 1955 (hence its name), it was by no means the first bag to debut under her label.
But what made it a revolution was how the 2.55 Flap Bag represented the antithesis of conventional handbag codes from the period. Instead of a trapezoidal top-handle design, the oblong 2.55 Flap Bag was streamlined and highly portable, made to sit comfortably on the shoulder by extended chain straps. This meant that women no longer had to feel encumbered by holding on to their bags, but could still tote their belongings comfortably. Mobility became the ultimate accessory, in this case.
Crafted of supple calf leather with a diamond quilt pattern that was said to have been inspired by equestrian equipment, the 2.55 Flap Bag became the template for most modern Chanel bags, informed by many personal touches that hold considerable significance for the label. For instance, the use of a burgundy lining that had been chosen specifically by Coco Chanel in homage to her old school uniform, while the turn-lock closure was adapted and updated by Karl Lagerfeld in the 1980s to sport the now iconic interlocking double-C motif.
On the other hand, the brand’s association with some of history’s most prominent style icons have also cemented their repute as one of the most esteemed luxury bag names to know in the business, whether it be Marilyn Monroe or Kristen Stewart. Carrying a Chanel bag doesn’t simply stop short of a sensorial experience in fine craftsmanship; it’s becoming part of a storied legacy that continues to be written from 114 years ago.
Of course, Chanel has introduced a myriad of other designs throughout its history that have successfully wooed over luxury consumers all the same, many of which have become classics in their own right. If you’re on the precipice of stepping into the fabled doors along 31 Rue Cambon yourself, here are some of the most enduring Chanel bag styles from across the years that will always be worth the investment.
The best classic Chanel bags to put your money into
Feature and hero image credits: Chanel
The Grand Dame of Chanel bags doesn’t just come in the guise of the 2.55 bag, but its updated younger sister, the Classic Flap, as well. Reworked by Karl Lagerfeld in the 1980s, this design preserves much of the original’s beloved motifs such as the diamond quilting and double bag construction, but replaces the famed Mademoiselle turn-lock in favour of the interlocking double-C turn-lock to better suit yuppie appetites for logomania from the period. This version has since become the de facto Chanel bag since its inception and continues to remain as the brand’s most popular accessory.
Image credit: Chanel
With that said, the original design penned by Coco Chanel continues to represent an emblematic facet of the brand’s heritage. Available to buy brand-new to this day, the 2.55 bag was named in honour of the month and year it was conceived, February 1955. Sharing many similarities with the Classic Flap, the 2.55 differs by way of a few key details. The first and most obvious of them all is the use of the Mademoiselle lock, and the second being an all-metal chain that was said to have been inspired by the key chains worn by caretakers of the orphanage where the namesake designer grew up. Another point of distinction here is that the 2.55 is typically offered only in crinkled lambskin, instead of the usual smooth lambskin or Caviar grain on the Classic Flap.
Image credit: Chanel
Introduced in 2011 as part of Chanel’s Fall/Winter presentation, the Boy bag was a design penned by Karl Lagerfeld to appeal to a more androgynous aesthetic. Sharp, pronounced corners and severe lines mark a clear contrast against the gentle beveled sides that were found on the Classic Flap, while the turnlock was removed entirely in favour of a new pinch-lock mechanism. This design was dubbed the Boy bag after Coco Chanel’s former lover Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel, and continues to be a core range in the French label’s offerings.
Image credit: Chanel
The first bag design to be introduced by current Creative Director Virginie Viard, the Chanel 22 broke away from all prior notions of what a ‘typical’ Chanel bag should look like. While imbued with the expected house codes that have defined the label for generations, the 22 bag is unique in its almost completely supple and loose shape, made from soft, buttery lambskin that sags and conforms to its contents.
Image credit: Chanel
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Chanel 19
The Chanel 19 bag holds great significance among collectors for being the last bag designed by Karl Lagerfeld as creative director of the storied fashion house before his passing in 2019. Keeping to the oversized quilted trend popular at the time, the 19’s most prominent design element was its pillowy maxi diamond quilt, brought together with a braided interlocking double-C turn-lock closure in the front. This was further accented by chunky hardware details, most notably on the crossbody chain and integrated top-handle.
Image credit: Chanel
While not traditionally sold as a handbag (Chanel places it in its Small Leather Goods section), the Chanel WOC, or ‘wallet on chain’, has traditionally been the most popular gateway bag for luxury consumers to take their first step into the world of Camelias. Translating the core codes of the label’s bags into a diminutive Continental wallet shape, the addition of its crossbody chain effectively turns this into a handbag replacement for cocktail nights and evening soirees.
Image credit: Chanel
RM 36387.96
While the 2.55 bag may have liberated women’s hands, there is no denying the demure, ladylike appeal that an old-fashioned top-handle bag inherently has. If your preference leans in that direction, the Chanel Coco Handle bag is a great classic to consider on our list. Launched in 2017, it is essentially what the Classic Flap would have looked like had it been designed with a top handle in mind. The double-C turn-lock closure opens to reveal a tidy interior comprised of three sections, with other motifs from its popular stablemate such as the quilted leather and Mona Lisa back pocket remaining unchanged. Despite being discontinued, interest in the Coco Handle remains high on the secondary market.
Note: The price of this item was converted from USD to MYR based on rates as of writing.
Image credit: Sotheby’s
RM 17745.13
While most of us know her as Coco Chanel, the namesake designer of 31 Rue Cambon was born with the name Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, which by extension inspired the Chanel Gabrielle bag. A supple, relaxed hobo bag that first emerged in 2017 as part of the offerings from Chanel’s Spring collection that year, Lagerfeld was said to have taken inspiration for its conception from virtual reality goggles, which is most visibly expressed through the shape of the bag’s solid base. Meant to appeal to the younger demographic, it was also the first Chanel bag to feature tri-coloured hardware.
Note: The price of this item was converted from USD to MYR based on rates as of writing.
Image credit: Sotheby’s
RM 19210.72
Vanity cases, otherwise commonly known as make-up bags, are traditionally used to transport delicate makeup essentials safely. But fashion has since appropriated its design into the world of handbags to great success, resulting in such icons as the Chanel Vanity Case Filigree. At its peak, the Vanity Case Filigree was one of the label’s most sought-after designs owing to its endearing proportions and continues to enjoy great demand within vintage circles after it was discontinued. Available in three sizes, the smaller versions generally tend to command higher price premiums.
Note: The price of this item was converted from USD to MYR based on rates as of writing.
Image credit: Sotheby’s
RM 16519.11
A popular bag style that emerged during the turn of the new millennium was the boardroom tote bag, designed specifically for the corporate Amazon on the move who needed room for her laptop, notebooks, and other essentials. Chanel’s take on this formula came in many different guises, but the Grand Shopping Tote, or GST, was by far the most popular. Its sizeable, open-mouthed design made it a great choice for those who needed storage capacity, while comfortable shoulder straps help retain comfort. Despite being discontinued, it remains one of the most coveted vintage styles to purchase. A smaller vertical tote shape from the range, dubbed the Personal Shopping Tote, is similarly beloved by collectors.
Note: The price of this item was converted from USD to MYR based on rates as of writing.
Image credit: Sotheby’s
It isn’t surprising how fashion enthusiasts often attribute Princess Diana to the Lady Dior bag. However, what some may not have realised is that Chanel had also once named a bag after her. Like many other well-heeled women of influence, Diana had been a frequent patron of the label and would often be seen wearing their signature bi-coloured heels as well as some of their bags during her public appearances. One bag in particular was often favoured by the Princess: a quilted design featuring a curved flap panel. This would later be named the Diana bag in her honour. Well-maintained vintage versions are especially coveted and fetch prices of up to RM20,000.
Note: The price of this item was converted from USD to MYR based on rates as of writing.
Image credit: Sotheby’s
RM 21241.28
While it may not be the most common shape found in Chanel’s bag range, the label had previously dabbled in satchel bags by releasing the Chanel Business Affinity shape during Spring/Summer 2017. An incredibly practical design, it came with both a discreet top handle in addition to a crossbody chain, and offered plenty of storage by way of a capacious main compartment and a separate zippered section at the front. Better still, the bag’s sides can be expanded by undoing the snap buttons that hold its gussets together.
Note: The price of this item was converted from USD to MYR based on rates as of writing.
Image credit: Sotheby’s
