Strong, clean nails look healthy and fresh but getting—and maintaining—them isn’t easy. Whether you’re dealing with the wear and tear of gel nails or you struggle with weak, brittle natural nails, three celeb manicurists reveal the nail habits that are wrecking your tips. Here, nine things you should avoid in order to achieve the nails of your dreams—high five!
Using Your Nails as Tools
“Opening cans, peeling stickers, or scratching surfaces with your nails can cause them to break, split, or weaken over time,” explains Lily Nguyen, celebrity manicurist and founder of Labo Beauté Salon. “Instead, use the pads of your fingers and be sure to wear gloves when cleaning and gardening to protect your nails.”
Biting Your Nails
This might seem obvious but in case you need a reminder: “Biting your nails weakens the nail structure, causes uneven growth, and can introduce bacteria, which can lead to infections,” says Nguyen. “Use a fidget toy or something similar to distract yourself from the temptation.” (My mom keeps a smooth stone in her pocket to rub when she gets the urge to bite her nails and cuticles.)
Not Properly Prepping Your Nails
“That means pushing back your cuticles gently to create a clean base,” explains Miss Pop, New York City-based nail artist. “Next, just like makeup needs a primer, nails need a base coat for long wear, or you can skip a step with a polish that has a built-in base coat, like Essie Gel By Essie line.”
Soaking Your Nails in Water Before a Manicure
“The natural nail plate is porous like a sponge, and it takes an hour to dry fully, which means when you are getting a manicure and they soak your hands in water, they are polishing a nail that is damp and expanded,” explains Julie Kandalec, celebrity manicurist and educator. “So after it dries, the nail shrinks back to its original size and shape but the polish doesn’t, and that’s what makes it peel off prematurely.” Instead, Kandalec recommends opting for a waterless manicure. “Look for someone who doesn’t soak when they do a mani, or ask your current nail tech to do a dry mani.
Russian manicures are all dry as well, and of course a gel mani is a great remedy too. Any type of nail enhancement—soft gel, hard gel, acrygel, acrylic, and press ons—should never be soaked first. Products like Deborah Lippmann’s Cuticle Remover are super efficient in exfoliating that dry skin and cuticle area but does not need to be removed with soap and water.”
Kandalec says the water problem also applies if you soak your polished nails in water for an extended period of time (when doing the dishes or soaking in the bath tub). “The nail plate expands, but the polish does not, so this also can cause chipping.”
Applying Thick Coats of Polish
When applying color, Miss Pop says, always go for two thin coats instead of one thick one. “Even if a shade looks opaque in one coat, a thick layer takes forever to dry, while two thin coats dry faster and give you the best wear time with your mani.”
Leaving Gel Polish on Once It Starts Lifting
“Gels are a real commitment—you must remove them before they lift,” cautions Miss Pop. “Sticking to your appointment like clockwork is key, and it’s important to keep an eye out for lifting. Once the product lifts, it damages the keratin-rich top layer of your nail, weakening it. The sweet spot is normally every two to three weeks.
Overusing Gel or Acrylic Nails Without Breaks
The look can be addicting but frequent use of artificial nails can weaken natural nails, making them brittle and prone to damage, says Nguyen. “However, as long as you get them removed properly and take breaks once in a while, artificial nails are generally safe.” While you’re on a break and rocking your natural nails, Nguyen stressed the importance of trimming and filing properly. “Keep your nails at a manageable length and file them in one direction to prevent splitting.”
Skipping Cuticle Oil
Yes, it’s an extra step but one that goes a long way, says Miss Pop, who keeps cuticle oil in her car cup holder and dabs it on when she’s stuck at a light. “It strengthens your nails, extends your manicure, and helps to prevent hangnails.” Aim to use it daily, but even a couple of times a week makes a big difference. Her fave: Essie on a Roll Cuticle Oil.
Ripping Off Gel Nail Polish
“Trust me, I know how tempting it is to rip gel polish off with your teeth, says Miss Pop, who confesses that before she was a nail artist, she was a nail biter. “But that does even more damage to your nails, and the damage is tough to repair. Usually, you just have to wait for your nails to grow out.” If you do need help removing fake nails, read our how-to.
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