The real cost of luxury handbags: Milan prosecutors uncover labor exploitation in supply chains

A recent report by the Wall Street Journal has spotlighted labor exploitation in the luxury goods sector, sparking a wave of social media outrage and criticism. The investigation, led by Milan prosecutors, uncovered labor abuses in factories producing high-end products for iconic brands like Dior and Armani.

The probe revealed that foreign laborers were exploited in workshops manufacturing handbags and other leather goods. These workshops, all based in Italy, were producing items for Dior at shockingly low costs. According to court documents, Dior paid a supplier just €53 ($57) per handbag, which retailed in stores for €2,600 ($2,780).

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Armani’s supply chain showed similar disparities. The brand purchased bags from a supplier for €93, which were then resold to Armani for €250, eventually reaching store shelves priced at approximately €1,800. These findings highlight the significant markup on luxury goods, prompting questions about the true cost of production.

Fabio Roia, President of Milan’s court system, emphasized the need for brands to scrutinize their production costs. “Why does it cost so little to manufacture the product? The brands need to ask themselves this question,” Roia was quoted as saying.

This investigation is part of a decade-long effort by Milan prosecutors to address illegal working conditions across various sectors. Their focus recently shifted to the luxury industry, which produces half of the world’s high-end goods. The court of justice in Milan has proposed nationwide measures for luxury firms to enhance supplier oversight and ensure compliance with labor laws.

The revelations have intensified scrutiny on luxury and fast fashion brands, many of which have previously faced allegations of workforce exploitation and child labor in South Asian countries. The exposure has prompted some brands to reevaluate their supply chains to mitigate reputational damage.

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Dior, owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH, declined to comment on the findings. However, court documents indicate that the brand has submitted a memorandum outlining measures to address supply chain issues. Armani asserted that it has stringent control and prevention measures in place and is cooperating transparently with authorities.

The Wall Street Journal’s report has since been amplified on social media, particularly on the platform X (formerly Twitter). Users expressed their disgust and called for boycotts of the implicated brands, further amplifying the pressure on luxury fashion houses to reform their practices.

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