Japanese Gel Nails Are Better Than a Regular Gel Mani

Few options are better than a gel mani for long-lasting, chip-proof wear and ample shine. But Japanese gel nails are a riff that challenges the original technique, offering a gel nail polish that can be even better for certain designs. This style of manicure is especially helpful if you’re a fan of nail art, since it can offer three-dimensional effects and bold, eye-popping color.

InStyle chatted with nail artist Yukie Natori and asked how Japanese gel nails are different from the standard treatment we get in the West. “There are three main characteristics of a Japanese gel manicure: product differences, difference in technique, and a sense of design,” Natori says. Ahead, Natori and fellow nail artist San Sung Kim break down what a Japanese gel manicure is, elaborate on what sets it apart from a standard gel mani, and discuss its pros and cons.

Keep reading to learn everything there is to know about the Japanese gel manicure.

What Are Japanese Gel Nails?

Japanese gel manicures are nail treatments that use a specific, Japanese-made gel nail polish. This type of formula “usually comes in a pot or bottle and is made with high-quality ingredients,” says Kim. “The colors are very pigmented and easy to use for art or for a full-coverage nail.”

As a result, you can expect a thicker nail polish that is made with 100 percent gel. While it has a softer feel than the gel polishes stateside, it’s still very durable, making the Japanese gel manicure ideal for out-of-the-box designs and bold nail colors. “A Japanese gel manicure has a higher viscosity and adheres more closely to the nail,” notes Natori.

Japanese Gel vs. Regular Gel

It Lasts Longer

Japanese gel nail polishes can last a lot longer than regular gel manicures, which usually start chipping at the three-week mark. “The best gel nail polish is applied to each client by using different base coats to suit the client’s nail condition, or by layering for greater strength,” Natori says. “The nails last longer—from three weeks to over a month—and the shine lasts longer.”

It’s Easier to Remove

Another advantage: Because they’re softer than traditional gel polish formulas, Japanese gel nails can be more easily filed down and removed without damaging the nail. Otherwise, there isn’t much of a difference between Japanese gel and traditional gel manicures. In fact, the application and removal process are largely the same.

The Application Process Is Similar

During a nail appointment, Kim says, expect the basic nail and cuticle prep. Your nail technician will cleanse and file the nail before applying the base gel. Then, they’ll apply your Japanese gel shade of choice before curing it with a UV light. Whether you’re just doing one shade or an intricate nail-art look will ultimately determine how many times you’ll have to cure your nails. As the final step, your technician will seal it with a top coat.

Japanese Gel Nails Pros and Cons

Pros

Japanese gel manicures have a handful of advantages over your standard mani. For one, they last longer since the application is tailored to each individual. They’re also better for your nails, considering they’re formulated with ingredients that help protect them, says Natori. And as Natori and Kim point out, this style mani also gives you access to more designs and a wider array of colors.

Cons

As far as prices go, a basic gel manicure is typically between $50 and $70. If you get designs, this will go up—maybe to $150 or so. At Yukie Natori, a Japanese gel manicure with one color is $60. But it may cost up to $250 with hand-drawn designs, says Natori. “We can paint any design with a brush, whether it is a painting imitation, anime cartoon, landscape, or logo.” All in all, though, the only real downside to this nail treatment is that it could run up the tab.

Aftercare

Once you’re ready for a change (or your nails have grown out), your Japanese gel manicure can be filed or soaked off like other types of gel—but always ask your technician for best practices so you don’t damage your nail. If you’re looking for some inspiration, Kim recommends using Japanese gel polishes for more intricate looks. “Some of the designs you can achieve with Japanese gel polishes are nuanced or abstract,” she says. Portrait art, 3-D art, or even the summer-worthy sunshine-dipped nails: With a Japanese gel mani, the options are endless.

Our Favorite Looks

Elevated French Tips

Upon first look, this mani is minimal. It appears to only feature pink French tips on an otherwise neutral nail. However, when you look closer, there is a flame French tip at the ring finger. This is the type of detail we love from a Japanese gel manicure—especially one you can wear all year long.

Abstract Patterns

This nail art is the definition of intricate. The more time you spend gazing into the pattern, the more you realize that they’re essentially like fingerprints. Each one has its own beautiful pattern that perfectly complements the next. Plus, they’re a little spooky—which makes them a great manicure for fall.

Make It Fruity

Perfect for summer because of its fruity essence, we love the cohesion of this design. The almond nail shape allows each fruit the space to shine and the colors are fresh and vibrant. Each fingernail will have to be hand-painted, though, so you’ll be at the salon for a little longer than if you were to get a solid color.

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