Nicole Crentsil is the Ghanaian-British entrepreneur and angel investor determined to see this change. “I became an investor in 2020 when it was apparent that the Black community was suffering,” she says. “It’s about ensuring that the next generation of small Black businesses can thrive, grow and build with the correct investment and connections. Allyship is key – big corporations have a duty to ensure that they’re diversifying both their people and product ranges. It’s so important that we’re represented, not just in the fabric of society but in commercial and retail spaces too.”
Roberts lends her expertise to Shea Moisture – one of the first textured hair brands to secure shelf space in UK supermarkets such as Sainsbury’s and Waitrose – and is hopeful that change is on the horizon. “In the past it was very difficult to get good products from mainstream stockists, but I think that’s getting better.”
Founded in the wake of the 2020 George Floyd protests, the Black Pound Day marketplace offers an online directory of solely Black-owned brands. Devised to economically empower businesses that are underrepresented, it includes a list of where to shop all over the UK for Afro haircare products.
Could this solve the issue of inclusion in a market that seems to ignore Black men? The answer isn’t so clear cut. Buying from Black businesses pretty much guarantees products that are made with Black hair in mind. But it doesn’t quite address the segregated shopping experience. Plus, until more Black-owned brands are afforded the opportunity and platform that comes with mainstream stockist support, there is limited scope for them to grow in all-important areas like revenue and brand recognition.
Burgeoning brand Ruka Hair – whose hair extensions and products cater to 4C hair textures that have traditionally been the most underserved – is one of few that’s bucking the trend. It’s a brand Crentsil has invested in since its early stages, and in November 2022, it announced it would be stocked in Selfridges stores and online. Since, Ruka has had successful pop-ups in mega retailer Westfield, ads on prime time television and is setting a precedent for making Afro hair products available in premium spaces. It’s a massive first for Black women who have long existed in the niche and can finally experience the convenience of shopping mainstream. And while ranges for Black men are currently few and far between, news like this bodes well for what is possible.
“I want to be fair and say that Dior Couture SS23 stands as a momentous testament to the progress being made within the fashion industry,” says Donaldson, who believes the celebration of Afro hair on runways is a step in the right direction. And it’s not long before the hair industry follows suit. “We’re in a time when people are more willing to push things forward and supply for us. The mood is shifting,” says Maciver.
For his product line, which will launch with a nourishing shampoo and wave pomade, he’s got his sights set on a few stockists. Of course, there’s his barbershop Slider Cuts. Then, of course, there’s Pak’s. “Pak’s doesn’t have an issue with stocking diverse products,” he says. But I for one am hoping that Pak’s won’t be the only option, because the journey to representation in this industry has been long enough. We don’t need any more long haul trips.
