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Nail health is having a major moment. From the Japanese manicure — an intensive treatment that buffs vitamin-rich pastes into the nails — to the ‘nail facial’, which nourishes by using cuticle oils and strengthening base coats, it seems we’re all eager to undo the damage caused by years of acrylics and the (arguably satisfying) habit of peeling off gel polish. But there’s a new treatment on the block, and it promises healthier, stronger nails after just one session.
Enter: the collagen manicure.
What is a collagen manicure?
Before diving into how collagen benefits nails, it’s important to note that collagen is a natural protein found primarily in the skin, keeping it smooth, supple and strong. As we age, our collagen levels run low, which is why skincare brands often add collagen to serums and moisturisers, most of which claim to plump the skin and reduce fine lines. But whether topical collagen products can boost deeper collagen reserves is still up for debate. What topical collagen products can do, however, is hydrate and moisturise the surface of the skin.
Where does the collagen manicure come in, then? Session manicurist Ami Streets explains that the collagen manicure is a treatment that uses collagen-infused products. It might start with a hand scrub, followed by a collagen-packed hand mask, nail polish, a rich collagen lotion, and a heavy helping of cuticle oil to nourish and hydrate dry, brittle nails and the surrounding skin.
“One of my favourite products to use during manicure prep is collagen-infused pre-soaked gloves,” says Streets, referring to Caci’s Rejuvenating Hand Mask, £8, which contains hydrolysed collagen, hydrating hyaluronic acid and deeply moisturising shea butter to soften the skin.
How does a collagen manicure work, and what are the nail benefits?
But here’s the thing: Streets says collagen-infused manicures and products tend to benefit the skin more than the nails themselves. That said, healthy, moisturised cuticles play a key role in promoting nail growth and strength, so the two go hand in hand: “Collagen molecules are typically too large to be absorbed directly into the nail plate,” explains Streets, “but they can improve the appearance of nails, cuticles and hands by softening skin and temporarily boosting hydration when topically applied.”
While collagen-infused hand and nail products mainly provide surface-level hydration and temporary plumping effects, Streets notes they can still help maintain the skin barrier — the outermost layer of skin that locks in moisture and keeps out bacteria. She says this can improve skin and nail texture over time.
But the specific type of collagen is important: “Collagen molecules are typically too large to penetrate deeply into the nail plate in their natural form, as skin and nails act as protective barriers,” says Streets. Instead, look out for treatments and products containing hydrolysed collagen, which consists of smaller molecules that can penetrate more easily. “These stimulate the skin to produce more collagen and support skin hydration,” adds Streets.
How much does a collagen manicure cost — and how long does it last?
A professional collagen-infused manicure can cost between £30 and £60, depending on location. Streets says the effects of a collagen manicure are generally short-term: “Any hand- and cuticle-plumping effects tend to last a day or two,” she adds.
Can you do a collagen manicure at home?
Besides hand masks (a staple in most professional collagen manicures), there are some at-home collagen-infused nail products, too. Nails Inc.’s Powered by Collagen Nail Polish Remover, £8, is acetone-free and packed with collagen to moisturise the skin while gently dissolving polish. Nails Inc. Gimme Strength Nail Strengthener, £9, is enriched with softening plant oils and moisturising collagen to improve the look and feel of weak, peeling nails instantly (thanks to the blurring shimmer) and over time.
Streets also recommends several other ingredients that can improve collagen as well as skin and nail health. First, chemical exfoliators like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic and lactic acid. Dr Dana Stern, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of nail care brand Dr. Dana, believes that, like skin, exfoliation is essential for improving nail damage and effectively hydrating nails. Her Nail Renewal System, £30, features the Glycolic Prep For Nails, a nail wand soaked with glycolic acid to buff away damaged nail cells.
Streets also recommends retinol, which kickstarts collagen production. Try a nightly slathering of hand cream like Nécessaire The Hand Retinol Repair Serum, £35, or No7 Pure Retinol Hand Cream, £17.95.
Lastly, most manicurists link healthy nail growth to the use of cuticle oil, so consider one packed with a collagen-stimulating antioxidant ingredient like vitamin C. Try Nails Inc. Vit C Please Cuticle Oil, £9, with the addition of moisturising vitamin E.
How can you improve the health of your nails and make them grow faster?
Finally, as with any nail care routine, Streets emphasises consistency. If fortnightly collagen manicures aren’t feasible, she recommends nightly cuticle oil application, regular use of hand cream (those containing sunscreen further preserve collagen), and wearing gloves to protect skin and nails during tasks like cleaning.
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