Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri had a clear brief for the beauty that walked today’s runway: “Witchy” was the inspiration for the black wine-stained lips designed to stun, not to scare. “It has a gothic part of it, a bit punkish, but a bit girlish also” Peter Philips told Vogue backstage as models were encouraged to sip through straws and eat tiny sandwiches whole to keep the “tricky” look from wiping away with every bit. The look developed “according to what Maria wanted to say about women being seen as witches is in a male dominated world,” Philips said of working with Grazia Chiuri in the weeks ahead while they reviewed sketches of the collection.
The creative and image director of Christian Dior makeup incorporated “raw” elements that he deliberately skipped at the house’s Couture show a few months ago. Now, “very luminous, glowy skin and a witchy lip” started with Dior Forever Glow Veil Makeup Primer and zero contouring to create a “blank canvas” for the unexpected. It was an inky eyeliner pencil, Diorshow On Stage Crayon in 099 Black, that Philips used to create the ombre effect, applied to upper lips “kind of rough” before quickly blending and fading the color with a Q-Tip “so it kind of bleeds out a bit.” But it isn’t meant to look like blood, or like Halloween, or like a horror movie. Instead, he softened the edge with Rouge Dior Forever shades chose to match models’ individual complexion for “a fine balance.”
Filippo Fortis / Gorunway.com
