Certain conversations have a way of leaving us with a smile.
Our recent phone call with sustainable fashion designer Vino Supraja, renowned for her eponymous eco-conscious label, was one of those moments.
Throughout the 60-minute conversation, her joy, grounded wisdom, and playful innocence radiated through the phone, making a lasting impression.
Seated in her Dubai home, amid the frenzy of preparing for her London Fashion Week 2023 showcase on 16 September, the designer carved out a moment of tranquility to chat with South First.
In our conversation, we delved not only into the couturier’s Purisai collection that will feature at the London Fashion Week 2023 but also uncovered her spirited side to life.
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The ‘manjapai’ from Vandavasi
“I still call myself the ‘manjapai’ from Vandavasi,” she playfully begins the interview.
Nevertheless, these words are not tinged with condescension but rather infused with pride in her deep-rooted origins.
Vino’s strong connection to her hometown in Tiruvannamalai is evident, where she spent her formative years meandering its streets and immersing herself in its laid-back yet lively culture.
She fondly recollects the days when entertainment in Vandavasi revolved around temple festivals and the enchanting narratives of Mahabharata enacted through Bharatha Koothu (street plays based on the epic).
“Our house was located next to the Jalakandeswarar temple in Vandavasi. The temple used to stage several plays, and that used to be the only source of entertainment for us. Then, there was also Purisai village’s therukoothu, an ancient form of street play, that used to always create excitement,” recalls the architect-turned-fashion designer.
Growing up in a small town, Vino says, had its advantages.
“There were fewer distractions, and we found joy in the little things. It was a wonderful experience. And today, all these experiences have come together and influenced my collection. Isn’t that how art works? It’s all about drawing from personal experiences,” explains the creative, who studied Fashion and Design at the Shanghai campus of the International Fashion Academy (IFA), Paris.
Over the last decade, her designs have premiered on runways in New York, Brooklyn, and Shanghai Fashion Week. And yet, Vino is nothing but humble.
“My life has always been unpredictable. Every time I plan, life has another route for me,” shares the designer.
“So now, I plan for the day and let life take its course. More often than not, I appreciate the path it leads me on. It’s crucial for me to remain rooted and true to myself throughout this journey. I’ve never wanted to be someone else in the process,” she emphasises.
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Staying true to the roots
It is perhaps this thought — to stay true to her roots that led Vino to the world of sustainability because, for her, it’s not merely a trend.
“My father was a doctor who served the people in Vallam. Moreover, he took great care to ensure no harm was caused to Mother Earth and tended to his farm until his final days,” she shares.
A chance encounter during her post-graduation days in Fashion Marketing in Dubai changed her perspective on the fashion industry.
Her professor introduced her to the concept of fashion pollution, unearthing the darker underbelly of the industry.
“I was genuinely shocked,” she confesses.
“I had already spent five years in the industry without being aware of this issue, so I could only imagine how little the general public knew. Furthermore, I felt a heavy burden of guilt — my father had dedicated his entire life to doing good for people and nature, and here I was, contributing to the opposite end of the spectrum!” she reflects.
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An awakening
This awakening sparked an idea that would become her mission: the birth of an online sustainable fashion brand.
Today, through her bespoke label, she champions eco-friendliness and personifies a harmonious blend of tradition, sustainability, and artistic innovation.
Treading the delicate line between global perspective and authenticity, her upcoming showcase of ‘Purisai’ carries a deep cultural resonance.
It will serve as a tribute to her rich memories and the remarkable journey that has taken her from a small-town girl to a global fashion icon in sustainability.
In 2022, Vino launched a ready-to-wear collection inspired by the Purisai therukoothu. But when she got the opportunity to showcase a collection at the London Fashion Week, she decided to revisit this story.
“This is the first time we’ve taken the same inspiration but created something different. This is version 2.0,” she says.
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Fabric, texture & motifs
Vino works closely with a group of weavers in Chennimalai, Erode, and sources the fabric from them.
But, the uniqueness of her brand lies in the prints.
The collection on the ramp will involve meticulous hand embroidery and hand sketches.
“I treat the fabric like a canvas, creating art first and then fashioning garments based on that art. The art dictates what kind of garment it will become,” she shares.
For this collection, the primary colours are black and white.
“I’ve added multi-colour accents inspired by the original therukoothu costumes. I’ve incorporated a lot of mirror work, drawing from the mirrors used in therukoothu crowns and shoulder accessories,” she explains.
The authentic therukoothu costume usually doesn’t have buttons or hooks; everything is tied using ropes.
“Here, you’ll see a lot of ties for closures. Additionally, I’ve incorporated the idea of salangai instead of tassels; these salangai pearls create a sound as you walk. The shoulders will be accentuated, inspired by the dramatic shoulder design in therukoothu costumes. As always, I use certified organic cotton fabric, which adheres to standard cotton specifications. The dyes I use are azo-free and chemical-free,” she shares.
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Styling a street play
However, presenting this collection without context was not an option for Vino.
“This collection is incredibly special to me,” she says, her voice exuding enthusiasm.
To ensure that her audience understands the inspiration behind her creations, Vino has gone a step further. She has integrated a live therukoothu performance into her fashion showcase, infusing authenticity and cultural significance into every thread.
“I realised that if I just showcased the garments without context, nobody would understand the inspiration behind them. They would simply see it as another fashion collection. I am grateful that they’ve given us an extra minute of stage time for this,” she shares.
Actor Vaanmadhi Jagan will be performing the therukoothu and has been trained by the renowned Purisai Kannappa Thambiran Therukoothu troupe.
“I am grateful to Palani Murugan and Kannappa Sambandan ayya for all their support. We’ve also collaborated with a team to record an authentic therukoothu song that will accompany the performance,” Vino shares.
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Making conscious choices
For Vino, the author of What is Sustainable Fashion (2022), sustainability is not an absolute but a relentless journey of conscious choices.
“Achieving 100 per cent sustainability is nearly impossible due to the inherent carbon footprint in daily life. The moment you are born, you create a carbon footprint,” she shares.
However, she is committed to being as sustainable as possible by reducing plastic use and incorporating organic materials.
“It is important to continuously learn and adapt in the pursuit of sustainability. For instance, some of our previous fabric was made from recycled PET bottles. However, I reconsidered it after learning about its potential unsustainability and the release of microplastics when washing the polyester fabric,” she highlights.
She believes in offsetting this footprint and suggests planting trees as a way to neutralise environmental impact.
“We focus on responsible packaging, avoidance of plastic, and encourage customers to follow sustainable fashion practices, like wearing a garment at least 30 times before considering discarding it. We also offer a return scheme where customers can return well-worn garments for credit notes, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to responsible disposal and recycling,” she shares.
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Sustainability beyond fashion
For Vino, her brand is not just about selling garments but spreading awareness and a sustainable philosophy. She uses her diverse skills, including her background in TV, radio, filmmaking, and writing, to raise awareness about sustainable fashion.
“I believe that anything sustainable must take into consideration the people who make it all, not just the Earth; it’s about the people and the planet. So, we find out about the working conditions of the weavers, their working hours, wages, and living conditions. We check everything and interact with them frequently,” she explains.
Through the London Fashion Week 2023 showcase, Vino’s primary goal is to raise awareness about the art form of therukoothu, and sustainable fashion.
“Of course, for any artist, the biggest motivation is the applause you receive. I’ll be happy if people appreciate my work. But more importantly, people should know our story and our people,” she asserts.
Despite enduring hardships, personal losses, and the capriciousness of her nomadic existence, Vino maintains an unwavering belief that life has a designated path for her.
“I embrace life as it unfolds, maintaining a relaxed attitude and sprinkling humour into every situation,” she shares.
A staunch advocate of “enjoying the process,” Vino aspires to continue discovering joy in the simple pleasures, just as she did as a girl in Vandavasi. She firmly believes that “the universe can cook delightful surprises when the timing is right”.
“As I look back at my formative years, I had no inclination towards fashion whatsoever. Yet, here I am today!” she signs off, as she gears up to grace the London Fashion Week stage with Purisai.
To follow Vino Supraja’s sustainable fashion journey, visit Instagram @vinosupraja @vinosupraja.irl
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