For all the things Los Angeles is known for – its weather, its Hollywood affiliations, its bad traffic — its fashion scene historically hasn’t been one. But in recent years, the industry has begun turning its sights on the state of sunny California. In April, Chanel showcased its Cruise 2023/2024 collection in the City of Angels, marking the first time the luxury French fashion house has showcased in L.A. since 2007. Versace had a similar star-studded runway show a few months prior, and Celine showcased in the city recently, too. Brands like Gucci, Givenchy, Dior, Maison Margiela and Chanel have unveiled new retail concepts and Miu Miu’s summer event on Malibu Pier and Loewe’s West Hollywood party were the events of the summer.
This new fashion industry focus on the city makes sense: there are endless celebrities who call Los Angeles home, and, therefore, an abundance of stylists and PR agencies. There are countless influencers and models and a slew of incredible concept and vintage stores. L.A. is also home to a growing number of fashion designers, including Tom Ford (the person), Rodarte, Simon Miller and Staud.
Given the above, it shouldn’t be surprising that this year, for the first time in a long time, Los Angeles Fashion Week was on many people’s radars. Taking place from October 18 to October 22, LAFW’s lineup included a slew of buzzworthy labels which have previously shown in New York, as well as all the events and after-parties one would expect from the likes of London, New York, Paris or Milan. With 10 runway shows and presentations, four film screenings, sever round tables and masterclasses, as well as a focus on ethical fashion, inclusivity and sustainability, we wouldn’t be surprised if next year Los Angeles is the place to be for any new or established designer.
Below, the moments you missed from LAFW.
Imitation of Christ
To open LA Fashion Week, Imitation of Christ took over The Hole Gallery in Hollywood to showcase its Spring Summer 2024 collection, while sending a poignant message of spiritual unity and peace. Guests arrived to find a performance that brought together representatives of five faiths, who gave blessings while models moved to choreography set by designer Tara Subkoff and dancer Lauren Cannon. In a similar vein to when Gucci’s ateliers styled and dressed models in real-time at their show in Milan, the brand removed the barrier between backstage and front of house with styling and clothes-making going on in the open at the same time as the performance.
In line with Subkoff’s ethos of practising environmental activism through art and fashion, the collection mixed limited-release pieces made from deadstock and reworked thrift clothes. As is the Imitation of Christ way, the brand also worked collaboratively with young creatives. This time including Nolan Gross, Izzy Huynh, Ellen Jong, Tiffany Nguyen, Rose Ponizil, Hudson Schaetzke, Nik Van Dalen, and Galen Womack.
Luis de Javier
As soon as Luis de Javier was announced as being included in the Los Angeles Fashion Week schedule, his show became one of the week’s hottest tickets. Since launching his label in 2020, the London-based Spanish designer has been worn by Beyoncé, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner, and now counts fashion visionary Riccardo Tisci as his mentor. After the pair met at a dinner, the former creative director of Burberry and Givenchy, who styled the show, has been working with de Javier for the past year and a half.
Debuting in New Y0rk in 2022, and showing again there in February, de Javier presented his third-ever collection in Hollywood, taking one of LAFW’s prime spots on Saturday night. Entitled “La Ruta”, the collection — filled with all of the latex, leather and spikes you’d expect — reimagined the ’90s hardcore rave movement in Spain called “La Ruta del Bakalao”, which was shut down by an oppressive movement. “Last night was only the beginning,” de Javier wrote on Instagram the morning after the show. “Ready to deliver sex on legs every season.”
Theophilio
Another exciting young designer who showcased at LAFW is Edvin Thompson of Theophilio, winner of the 2021 CFDA Award for Emerging Designer of the Year. On Friday night, the brand brought the Caribbean to the Pacific Coast with its collection “Out of Many, One People,” inspired by designer Thompson’s Jamaican heritage. Featuring sequined trench coats, crystalized knitwear and snakeskin prints, as well as mustard silk power suits and the brand’s signature “I love TP” graphic tees, the show, which was supported by the likes of prominent stylist Law Roach, Shaun Ross, Jesse Williams, Guapdad 4000 and Jeniece Blanchet definitely delivered.
“When I embarked on the journey of sketching and sourcing fabrics for this collection, my mind wandered back to when I was 14, residing in New Jersey, and envisioning the world around me,” Thompson wrote in the show notes. “My fascination with textures and prints took centre stage, shaping how I aspired to present myself in this vast world. There were moments when I found courage to express my style confidently, even as I navigated the challenge of understanding my own identity amidst the opinions of others. This collection represents the subsequent chapter following the homecoming theme, still carrying the banner for urban cities, along with the opulent sands and serene blue lagoons of Jamaica.”
Sergio Hudson
Since his New York Fashion Week debut in 2020, Hudson, who was born in South Carolina, but resides in L.A., has been one of the week’s hottest tickets. Given he showed on schedule on the East Coast just two months ago, it was surprising to see his name on the LAFW roster. But Hudson wanted to not only nod to the city he calls home, but prove his versatility, too. Debuting a new 14-look Spring 2024 collection on Thursday, the designer eschewed his usual bold colour palette, focusing instead on creamy neutrals in the form of form-fitting dresses, structured suits and deconstructed shirts.
Gypsy Sport
Gypsy Sport, a brand first founded in Harlem by designer Angeleno Rio Uribe in 2012, celebrated its 10-year anniversary at Los Angeles Fashion Week, sending a diverse lineup of models down the runway, including prominent L.A. drag queen Salina EsTitties, to early aughts hip-hop tracks, before Trino x Adam, who walked the show, came back out to create a dance party that had show attendees out of their seats.
