Givenchy’s New Book, Celebrating Helmut Newton, Ami’s China Push

ONE FOR THE BOOKS: A definitive volume chronicles the catwalks of Givenchy, spanning from the 1952 debut of Hubert de Givenchy to the fall 2023 collection by incumbent artistic director Matthew M. Williams.

Published by Thames & Hudson, “Givenchy Catwalk, the Complete Collections” is coauthored by fashion historian Alexandre Samson, who is a curator at Paris’ Palais Galliera museum, and fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen.

The 632-page volume is organized chronologically, each section starting with a succinct biography of de Givenchy, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald, Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller and Williams. Thousands of images captured during the couture and ready-to-wear presentations give a snapshot of each season.

Giving this in-depth and chronological read of Givenchy’s history offers “understanding of the evolution of fashion in the second half of the 20th century,” said Samson. The progression “creates reference that is very good for the mind. With social media, you see shortcuts and [inaccurate] storytelling being created.”

The authors also dove deeply in the house archives, “among the most complete in terms of press coverage” according to Samson, to inform their introductory comment of each season. “This doesn’t just offer a monolithic vision but [constitutes] a constellation of views from international, national and even regional press that truly enlighten the narratives.”

For Samson, taking good as well as negative reviews led to a faithful report of the collections. “It means admitting doubt but also recognizing the success, which humanizes the designer, particularly de Givenchy,” said the historian.

Commentary also sheds light on other fashion history moments seen through a Givenchy lens, such as the return of Gabrielle Chanel, the emergence of André Courrèges or Yves Saint Laurent’s influence. It also highlights key relationships between de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn but also with Cristóbal Balenciaga.

“They built a duo, where one wasn’t greater than the other,” said Samson. “It’s really interesting and refreshing. Today, you see brands collaborating but press called [their] duo ‘Givenciaga’ in 1958.”

“Givenchy Catwalk, the Complete Collections” is available in English from Thursday, priced at 60 pounds. It will be available from Yale University Press on Nov. 28 in the U.S., at $80. Versions in French and Italian will be released in November by publishing houses La Martinière and L’Ippocampo, respectively. — LILY TEMPLETON

NEWTON’S PARTY: Charlotte Rampling, Karen Elson, Kristen McMenamy, Jon Kortajarena, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Cedric Charbit and Craig McDean all turned up to A Coruña in Galicia, Spain, last night, about 20 minutes away by car from the fast fashion epicenter of Arteixo, where Zara’s parent company Inditex is headquartered, to celebrate the opening of “Helmut Newton – Fact & Fiction,” an exhibition celebrating the life and work of German-Australian photographer Helmut Newton.

The exhibit is presented by Marta Ortega Pérez, the non-executive chair of Inditex, and curated by Philippe Garner, Matthias Harder and Tim Jefferies in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation, which was established by the artist in 2003.

Chef Javi Olleros put together a special menu to celebrate the private viewing of the exhibition and DJ Paul Sevigny provided the entertainment for the night.

The showcase marks the third exhibit backed by Ortega Pérez, who has worked to make the town a new cultural center, following presentations devoted to photographers Peter Lindberg and Steven Meisel.

The exhibit will run from Nov. 18 to May 1, 2024, telling the story of the man behind the work with a series of videos showing Newton at work and in conversation; personal images providing insights into his childhood, career and partnership with his wife June, and further documents, posters, cameras and equipment, props, artifacts and memorabilia.

Some of his “Big Nudes” portrait series will be on display, including Andy Warhol, David Bowie, Margaret Thatcher, Charlotte Rampling, Elsa Perretti, Daryl Hannah, Jerry Hall, Naomi Campbell, Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

AMI’S CHINA PUSH: China is on a coffee binge and fashion brands have taken note.

The latest brand to join China’s fashion pop-up café craze is Ami, the Parisian label known for its heart-shaped logo.

Last Friday, Ami launched its “Le Café Ami” pop-ups simultaneously in Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu.

The Beijing pop-up café, located at the South Plaza of the Sanlitun Taikoo Li shopping complex, is realized as a replica of an Haussmann-style Parisian building, completed with urban French elements such as Parisian bistro chairs, cylinder advertising columns, lampposts and decorated with a street sign that read “9, place des Victoires,” which is the address of the Ami headquarters in Paris.

“Through a unique experience, in outstanding settings, [the pop-up café is] tailor-made for Chinese friends and customers,” the brand said in a statement.

The ground floor café also features a dedicated space for Ami’s fall 2023 collection that spans men’s and women’s ready-to-wear as well as accessories.

Ami expanded the temporary café concept to Shanghai by working with Sunset +a:b, a charming café on a leafy street in downtown Shanghai. The Shanghai pop-up features a black-and-white striped sunshade, porcelain, tables and chairs. Product packaging came with an Ami de Coeur logo. The café featured exclusive Ami stationery products, such as Ami de Coeur keychains, magnets, paperweights and pens.

In Chengdu, Ami linked up with Invisi, located near Taikoo Li Chengdu, with similar set design elements and also sold Ami souvenirs.

The three pop-up cafés will open for one month until Dec. 8. — DENNI HU

ECO MINDED: Phoebe English, the London designer who’s known for her darkly romantic creations, has teamed with the Kentucky-based bourbon maker Maker’s Mark on an upcycled capsule for the holiday party season.

The eight-piece collection includes a dress, shirt, T-shirt, trousers, blazer, jacket, scarf and handbag. They are produced on a limited made-to-order basis and are made with a combination of upcycled clothing such as T-shirts, deadstock plaid, occasion party wear, and deadstock wools. 

The pieces are inspired by the Maker’s Mark distillery Star Hill Farm, where nature is preserved and respected via regenerative agriculture and sustainable programs such as zero landfill waste, solar energy warehouses, and the world’s first LEED-certified whiskey cellar.

“The range is purposefully multifunctional so that it can be styled up or down to fit into existing wardrobes and across personal styles,” said English.

“I’m delighted to be working with Maker’s Mark and have enjoyed learning about their extensive and long-standing work with considered agriculture, enhancing water health and biodiversity renewal. My hope is that this project can reach people to show that garments can live beyond a single wear, purpose, or season,” she added.

A dedicated pop-up called the (Re)Made to Party Boutique and Bar will run from Thursday to Saturday at 149 Shoreditch High Street. Customers who wish to purchase an item will be measured in person, before having their custom-made piece delivered to them in time to wear for the holiday season.

The pop-up will also have on-site tailors offering mends and repairs for free. Love Not Landfill, a nonprofit organization that encourages fast fashion fans to buy second-hand, swap, recycle and give clothes to charity, meanwhile, will set up a clothing donation bank there to promote conscious consumption.

Neil Skinner, marketing director of Edrington UK, the parent company of Maker’s Mark, said the brand decided to work on a fashion collaboration because it felt “a sense of responsibility to the way we impact our shared environment.” Maker’s Mark is the largest bourbon distillery in the world to achieve B Corp certification and the first distillery to achieve Regenified certification.

“We’re thrilled to strengthen our pledge to the planet and people beyond Star Hill Farm via our collaboration with Phoebe English, a designer equally committed to her sustainability mission,” added Skinner. — TIANWEI ZHANG

HARRIS AND HIS HAIR: Some fashion designers are synonymous with their hair — take Karl Lagerfeld and his signature white ponytail; Zandra Rhodes’ fuchsia pink bob, and Harris Reed, who with his long, auburn mermaid locks has joined Dyson as an ambassador across wearables, beauty and home.

To celebrate the partnership, the designer has featured in a series of campaign photos wearing the Dyson Zone headphones.

“Anyone who knows me knows that I have been a huge advocate for the Dyson hair tools and I use the Dyson Airwrap to style my own hair most days. Dyson’s commitment to innovation and developing cutting-edge hair technology has real synergy with my own passion for pushing creative boundaries in fashion,” said Reed.

“But this collaboration is not just about fashion, it’s about redefining how we experience sound and style. Like how my Airwrap has become integrated into my daily routine, the Dyson Zone headphones have become an extension of my creative process when I am in the studio designing a collection,” he added.

The British American designer is at the helm of French fashion house Nina Ricci, as well as designing under his own label.

For the past two seasons Reed has staged his shows for his own brand at the Tate Modern.

“It’s a bit of a dream. It was the first museum I went to when I moved to London eight years ago and I’ve always had a deep fantasy of it,” Reed told WWD in an interview earlier this year. — H.M.

UNDER PLEIN SUN: Philipp Plein is adding yet another brick to its lifestyle-leaning fashion business.

The company said Thursday it has inked a licensing agreement with Area B for the design, production and global distribution of Philipp Plein-branded beachwear for men and women.

Although the brand did show some beachwear designed and produced in-house in the past, the deal suggests renewed impulse toward the category.

The first collection under the agreement will bow for spring 2025.

“For me and my group it’s been a privilege to get in touch with Area B and admire the quality of their product, manufacturing prowess and pragmatic and effective entrepreneurial approach,” said designer Philipp Plein. He thanked his business adviser Carmine Rotondaro for orchestrating the deal and shared his confidence that the “strong relationship Area B has forged over time with suppliers and distributors will be an exceptional support to the diffusion and market success of the creations we’re working on.”

Established in 1999, Area B already has licenses for brands including Iceberg, Bikkembergs and Trussardi as well as private label clients such as North Sails and Cavalli Class.

“We’re glad about the deal with Philipp Plein and ready to kick off with enthusiasm this adventure of communication, product and distribution,” said Federico Venturato, president of Area B Group. “We’re confident that our technical know-how will blend perfectly with Plein’s design innovation and cutting-edge creativity and our global distribution network is adamant to receive new products.”

This is the latest step in the brand’s product offer extension as, after entering the fragrance arena, the company signed a license for its eyewear collections with Italian manufacturer De Rigo and with Timex Group Luxury Division for watches and jewelry.

In late 2020, Plein revealed a revamp and streamlining of the group’s operations, a rethinking of the wholesale and retail channels and of the Plein Sport and Billionaire labels, as well as the reinforcement of the online strategy and the launch of new licenses.

A year later, in 2021, the brand unveiled stately headquarters in Milan and revealed plans to launch an ambitious Plein hospitality project in the city; the relaunch of the Plein Sport line; new licensing deals and global store openings; significant distribution plans in China, and an overall enhancement of the womenswear business to rebalance the label’s offering, among other initiatives. — MARTINO CARRERA

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