How Basket and Spiral Braids Became 2024’s Hottest Protective Styles

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Protective hairstyles have long served as both a form of expression and a necessity for Black women. Though protective styles are deeply rooted in African culture, they’re often creatively reimagined by the stylish women who wear them in the present day. It’s why there’s never a shortage of options to choose from, no matter whether it’s boho box braids or french curls.

Recently, Koroba and Kipetaka braids (also known as swirl, basket, and spiral braids) have emerged as niche protective hairstyles, reimagined by various braiders. While well-known by West Africans, these styles were previously less common among Black women in America. But that’s rapidly changing, with more and more prominent personalities sporting these looks. Take Amandla Stenberg, who wore a fusion of the styles for her appearance at the Acne Studios Spring 2025 runway show.

Ahead, PS spoke with hairstylist Helena Koudou along with model and influencer Kayra Theodore to learn more about the history and rising popularity of these braids, plus what you need to know if you want to try them.

Experts Featured in This Article

Helena Koudou is a hairstylist at Slayed In Braids based in Brooklyn, NY.

Kayra Theodore is a model and influencer who specializes in hair content.

What Are Koroba Braids?

“Koroba braids originated in Nigeria, specifically from the Yoruba tribe,” explains Koudou. Koroba, which translates to “basket” in the Yoruba language, are traditionally styled as cornrows on the crown of the head and usually end in tight rolls. Braids like these were used to showcase social and marital status.

What Are Kipetaka Braids?

Kipetaka braids originate from Madagascar and are commonly seen among various tribes there, including the Betsileo people who reside in the central highlands of the island nation. The braids do not have to start at the crown of the head, but the ends are curled into a spiral. Though Koroba and Kipetaka braids share some similarities, each style has its own distinct history rooted in the African tribes it represents.

Why Are Koroba and Kipetaka Braids Trending Now?

Koudou attributes the popularity of Koroba braids to the fact that women of color are seeking new and creative protective hairstyles. “The usual styles people get are either cornrows or box braids,” she explains. Seeing a new option that can be worn as an everyday look is very appealing for people, she adds, noting that it’s also a prime example of how African culture is spread through hairstyles. (To that point, while they’re just now gaining popularity and recognition stateside, both types of braids have long been popular in Africa.)

Theodore, who’s known for her whimsical aesthetic and outlandish hairstyles, first discovered Koroba and Kipetaka styles while scrolling through Pinterest. She instantly fell in love and soon tried the braids on herself, inspiring many others to do the same. “I had no idea it would spark such a modern-day trend, and I feel honored to be part of spreading such a beautiful and meaningful hairstyle,” says Theodore.

She believes her reinterpretation of the braids resonated with many because she approached the style with authenticity, likening hair to art. “What I love about art is that we all have a different perspective on life,” she shares. “When we lean into our own interpretation of things instead of trying to mimic others, it catches people’s attention.”

How Are These Braids Installed in the Hair?

Although these styles are traditionally distinct, their modern reinterpretations often blend elements of both. Koudou’s technique for creating Koroba or Kipetaka braids starts by cornrowing the hair, beginning from the center of the client’s head and working out toward the crown. As the braids extend down, additional braiding hair is usually added. She finishes by coiling the ends into a spiral, which she secures with sewing thread. The hair can then be adorned with cowrie shells, like the Natural Cowrie Shell Braid Rings ($6), gold clips, and other accessories for extra flair. Koudou also takes extra care to ensure that the spirals and rolls at the ends are perfectly sculpted to frame her clients’ faces, adding an element of individuality. “I always ask for their input. It’s like a team working together to create a masterpiece,” she says.

What Kind of Maintenance Do the Braids Require?

These are low-maintenance, protective styles thanks to the construction of the braids. There’s not much you need to do because the braids are very secure and sewn into a roll, explains Koudou. This means they’re much less likely to unravel until it’s time to have them taken out, she adds. (However, if one of the spirals does come undone, you can either secure it with a bobby pin for a quick fix or re-sew the braids in place yourself.) Both types of braids typically last for over a month, and touch-ups are rarely needed. To ensure they stay frizz-free, Koudou advises tying up your hair at night with a silk or satin scarf.

Great options for wraps are the Muaves Wildflower Honey All Satin Hair Wrap ($35) or the Blissy Bonnet ($68). If you prefer scarves, try the Hair Wrap Heaven Sleep Well Silk Square Hair Scarf ($48). You can also use an oil, like the Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross Jojoba Hair & Scalp Oil Blend ($28) to keep your ends hydrated and the crown of your hair smooth.

Jada Jackson is a Chicago-based freelance journalist focused on fashion, beauty, identity, and culture. She is passionate about covering stories that showcase Black creatives and the Black experience through a global lens. In addition to PS, her work can be found in outlets such as Vogue Business, Allure, Teen Vogue, the South China Morning Post, and more.