WANT TO BUILD A HEAD-TURNING HANDBAG COLLECTION? MEET THE DALLAS-BASED CONSIGNMENT DIRECTOR WHO CAN LEAD THE WAY.
By Rhonda Reinhart • Photos by Josh David Jordan
Based on Amanda Marcuson’s early years, it’s not at all surprising that the Detroit native wound up as a luxury accessories consignment director at an auction house. For one thing, she loved playing dress-up as a kid (“I would literally go to school in opera gloves and think nothing of it,” she says). She also had a knack for sales. By 13, she was operating her own eBay store, where she sold vintage clothes and accessories she sourced from Salvation Army, Value World and the closets of her most fashionable family members. Soon enough, Marcuson began buying and selling bags specifically, trading up whenever possible – a Coach bag flipped for a Kate Spade, a Chloé bag for a Prada – until she reached the middle-school crème de la crème: a Louis Vuitton Multicolore Pochette. “How empowering it was to know that even the most unattainable bag in your eyes could be yours if you just knew what to buy and sell to get there,” she says. “That’s when a lightbulb went off in my head. Not only did I love fashion; I loved reselling it even more.”
These days, when she isn’t adding pieces to her personal collection of vintage Chanel bags, you can most often find Marcuson working the phones from her desk at Heritage Auctions’ Dallas headquarters or hopping a flight to track down exceptional handbag collections all over the country. She works with her clients to not only edit their collections but also to figure out where potential gaps are that can be filled. Last December, Marcuson helped one lucky client nab the newly released 20cm Alligator Birkin by Hermès. “I sold the bag within 48 hours to a tremendous Hermès collector who I have been helping advise on their collection over the last decade,” she says. “It was very cool to not only get the bag but also to find it a new home with someone who genuinely appreciates how special it is.”
Marcuson also spends her days authenticating product that comes through for auction, creating content for the @heritage_handbags Instagram account and researching handbag market comps to stay abreast of pricing trends. On the trends front, Marcuson notes that small bags, such as Hermès Kellys and Birkins 25cm and smaller, still reign supreme and pull in the highest resale values at auction. “There is no longer sticker shock seeing a 25cm leather Birkin sell for over $20,000 on the secondary market,” she says. “Buyers know that they will have to pay a premium that is often upwards of two to three times the retail price.”
After stints at Allure magazine, To Be Continued Luxury Resale and The RealReal, Marcuson says she has finally found her people at Heritage Auctions. “We are all collectors and experts in our fields who are incredibly passionate about what we do,” she says. “And there is never a dull moment in auction. You never know what kind of collection you’ll find yourself working with, and that alone is so exciting to me.”
Read on for Marcuson’s guide to the must-have handbags that should be on every Hermès collector’s wish list.
Available in Heritage’s October 3 Luxury Accessories Signature® Auction
Hermès So Black Birkin Faubourg Sellier 20cm
First released in 2019 as a limited-edition bag, the Birkin 20 Faubourg, also known as the “House Birkin,” echoes the façade of Hermès’ flagship boutique at 24 Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Crafted with Matte Alligator flaps, a Madame leather body, Swift leather window frames, Epsom leather glass and a Sombrero leather base, the Birkin 20 Faubourg features Orange H Swift awnings and a mini Hermès shopping bag in place of the traditional clochette. In 2021, Hermès unveiled two new colors: Midnight and Snow. The Midnight version, which will be featured in our October 3 Fall Signature® Auction, is predominantly black with a Matte Alligator flap and black PVD hardware, only used once before in the coveted So Black collection. The Faubourg bag is not only adorable but also extremely hard to attain from a boutique, regardless of your spend history with Hermès. This limited availability has driven its resale value at auction to exceed four times the MSRP in 2024.
Hermès Metallic Silver 25cm Kelly
Originally produced in 2004 to coincide with the Athens Olympics, the 25cm Silver Metallic Kelly was part of Hermès’ limited-edition Metallic Collection, including bags in shimmering shades of Gold, Silver and Bronze. To achieve the metallic finish, Hermès artisans add so much dye to the leather that it totally transforms it, resulting in a unique look and feel. While Hermès recently reintroduced the Metallic Gold, the Metallic Silver remains elusive. This rarity significantly enhances the collectability and allure of the bag.
Hermès Mini Kelly Picnic
Introduced by Jean Paul Gaultier in 2011, the Picnic collection showcases Hermès’ unwavering dedication to exceptional craftsmanship. Each bag takes approximately 10 hours to construct, and the intricacy of the production process requires two separate artisans: a saddler for the leather and a basket weaver for the body. This is the only Hermès handbag style known to require two craftsmen to construct it. In 2019, Hermès unveiled the Mini Kelly Picnic, highly desirable for its petite size. While the bag is available in seven colors, some shades are so rare they have yet to appear in any luxury auction.
Hermès So Black Alligator 35cm Birkin
The Hermès So Black collection, released in 2010 and also designed by Gaultier, is a striking series that features black PVD hardware paired with black leather, alligator or crocodile, creating a sleek, monochromatic look. The collection is particularly special due to its bold departure from Hermès’ traditional use of gold and palladium hardware. The So Black Matte Alligator Birkin is especially coveted for its luxurious texture and sophisticated, edgy appeal, making it a rare and sought-after item in the world of luxury handbags.
Hermès Mini Kelly Picto Doll
This bag looks like a cartoon character and comes with its own backpack. Need I say more? Released in 2022, the Mini Kelly Picto Doll is a delightful homage to the original 2000 Kelly Doll, reimagined with a pixelated art style. Thanks to its petite size and whimsical design – complete with movable arms and legs – the Kelly Doll has become an iconic presence on the secondary market, with auction prices reaching three to four times the retail value.
For inquiries regarding Hermès handbags or other luxury accessories, contact Amanda Marcuson at AmandaM@HA.com or 214.409.1281.
RHONDA REINHART is editor of Intelligent Collector.
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