Plaids, Corduroy, Kogal: Autumn Arrives in Tokyo

Spend enough time in Tokyo and you can start to notice certain paradoxes, like how a city that feels so busy can sound so quiet. You may also find that, despite its sprawling footprint, the best way to experience the city is on foot. Its walkable nature is partly what has made Tokyo a destination rivaling Paris or New York for street photography.

On a recent visit in late October and early November, the city was uncharacteristically warm. As one local put it, “Japan seems headed toward having just two seasons per year.” I spoke to her with the help of Momo Angela Ohta, a photographer in Tokyo who accompanied me around the city as an interpreter.

Although the climate during my trip did not exactly reflect the season, there were sartorial signs of fall. At Yoyogi Park lots of people wore autumnal earth tones that recalled the park’s natural palette. Elsewhere, others dressed in plaids, corduroy and a variety of layers.

There was no shortage of personal style in neighborhoods like Shimokitazawa, which was one of the best for spotting and buying vintage fashion. Getting locals to stop and be photographed was easy enough, but when asked what drove their clothing choices, many responded with a sort of humility, offering only a few hints. In Harajuku, a district known for bright colors, I was surprised to see lots of outfits that incorporated black. I took it as just another of Tokyo’s paradoxes.

She layered earth tones to great effect.
Pins offered insight into her interests and made her tweed jacket more personal.
Three people sitting on blankets on a grassy lawn. The blankets, which are covered with a spread of food and vegetables, have colorful patterns and the people are wearing clothing with various patterns.
They brought an eclectic assortment of patterns (and tiny vegetables) to Yoyogi Park.
An interesting juxtaposition of relaxed tunic against austere architecture near the Shibuya neighborhood.
The corduroy military jacket was a neat alternative to a business-casual blazer.
A cross-body flannel shirt gave her outfit a dose of ’90s style.
I encountered many stylish people near clothing stores, like this natty trio outside The Blurred Clothing Co., a shop in the Harajuku district.
Green knit caps unified their individual looks.
An arresting fade from white, to houndstooth, to black.
Free-flowing curls enhanced the silhouette created by her oversize blazer and knee-length skirt.
The pink hair bow topped off this storybook moment in Yoyogi Park.
A charming mashup of Comme des Garçons and “Peanuts.” She told me she painted the Snoopy tote herself.
Everything was coordinated, down to the black straw.
Solitude, while rare on the streets of Tokyo, could be sometimes found at train stations, like this one near the Shinjuku neighborhood. Train stations were also some of the few places to survey style from a distance.
She created a sort of modern kerchief by incorporating a baseball cap.
Unruly locks nicely complemented his loose layers, just as sharp-edged bangs did hers.
There was no way those vibrant plaid pants were getting lost in the crowd.
Hoop earrings and a septum ring tempered the wholesomeness of this retro men’s wear.
The neon sweater had a pleasingly shaggy texture.
A rather wintry mix of icy blond hair, shades of blue and leg warmers.
Merchandise of American colleges and universities, like this U.C.L.A. T-shirt I saw in Harajuku, was worn all over Tokyo.
This University of Kentucky sweatshirt caught my eye near Shibuya station.
Just as popular was merch from American sports teams.
Opposing looks that were more alluring side-by-side.
Their outfits exemplified kogal, a style of dressing in Japan that involves elements of schoolgirl uniforms. Skirts and slouchy socks or leg warmers are a must.
This pair was one of several I saw dressed in similar outfits with subtle variations.
Another similarly dressed pair, whose outfit variations included bags featuring different anime characters.
In that pose and those clothes, they looked like a couple straight out of a movie.
Browns and beiges warmed up all the black these friends wore on a coffee date at the park.

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