They were arguably the most visually striking pieces in Pharrell Williams’ debut Louis Vuitton menswear collection in June. Two coats–one knee-length, one cropped in a varsity cut–printed with Technicolor seascapes and the words “The Louis Vuitton Lovers Presents” in a kind of The Price Is Right-style font (RIP Bob Barker!).
On Williams’ twilit runway, these items were worn in tandem by the rapper brothers Pusha T and No Malice, whose joint group, Clipse (on hiatus since 2010), staged a comeback that evening with an all-new song played during the catwalk. The fraternal fashion moment underscored the thesis here: Pusha–@kingpush on Instagram, Terrence Thornton by birth–in particular has had something of a global sartorial renaissance in 2023, including a marquee role in Fear of God’s premiere fashion show in April, a first Met Gala appearance in May, a starring in a Moncler campaign just this month, and more.
While Pusha’s current fashion emphasis didn’t start in Paris, it was cemented with Louis Vuitton–not only for the high-vis mannequin credentials, but also on account of the rapper’s decades-long relationship with (and understanding of) Williams. In fact, it was Williams, in the 1990s, who was a primary reason for Clipse’s formation. Pusha, Malice and Williams were all living in Virginia Beach (the brothers were born in New York and had moved there; Williams was born and raised in the East Coast city).
“That was special,” said Pusha over a Zoom call earlier this summer. “Looking at my best friend who has always been a fashion icon. It was like watching all of his greatness come to fruition in full. You have to remember, we actually grew up together. I’ve always seen him take fashion risks. We had a creative bunch of friends and we also had a bunch of friends who were into the streets and into the life. Pharrell was not always understood. He might come out in a certain pair of pants and the guys didn’t get it.”
Pusha pauses for a moment, scanning back into sartorial nostalgia. He brings up a throwback: Polo Ralph Lauren’s Snow Beach capsule collection from 1993. Inspired by the era’s early snowboarding culture, it was graphic and color-blocked–very noticeable, very nineties.
