Rachel Comey has always stayed close to her customers, building friendships and communities around them, seen in the enthusiastic fans who turn out for events at her stores on Crosby Street in New York, Melrose Place in Los Angeles and now Filmore Street in San Francisco.
Taking note of their evolving lives, she saw a need for elevated accessories and polished tailoring, and for spring 2025 answered the call.
More from WWD
At her runway show Tuesday at an office building in the Financial District, she introduced her first collection of luxury handbags made in Italy, arriving in stores in March.
The hero style is the “tool bag inspired by our working woman,” the New York designer said backstage. “It’s a long time coming, seeing the evolution of our customers’ careers and lives, it was time to invest in the Italian development.” The handsome and versatile looking bags have winged pockets, and were reproportioned into both day and evening sizes.
Of course, there was plenty of the denim that is a cornerstone of Comey’s business; nobody does it like her, taking the everyday fabric to a chic sportswear place. But the biggest news was in tailoring, specifically three new blazer silhouettes — longer line and button front; mid length and waist curving, and cropped and drapey — again to address her customers’ busy working lives. Rendered in double twill, indoor-outdoor fabrications and shades of apricot, butter yellow, cream or black, the pieces were lovely additions to the designer’s universe.
“We had two customers in the past couple months, brides who came in and bought their dresses the day before their weddings,” Comey said. “I realized they are so busy and have so much going on in their lives…so it was about knowing what they want and need and responding.”
Naturally, she also delivered plenty of quirky-creative pieces that delighted in how they experimented with color, pattern and technique, such as a black minidress swinging delicate gold chains, a skirt of soft lime green tiers of fringey craft yarn, and 1980s-reminiscent arty knits.
“People always want to get hit with something spontaneous that lets you show up in a way that’s energized,” she said. It’s what makes fashion fun.
For more New York spring 2025 reviews, click here.
Launch Gallery: Rachel Comey Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD’s Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.