These days, it’s nearly impossible to glance around without seeing a set of perfectly shiny gel nails. If you’re one of the hundreds of women who religiously books a gel refill every two to three weeks, you might be asking yourself: should I be considering a HEMA-free option?
That’s because, much like the skincare industry has shifted towards cleaner, allergen-free products, the nail industry is following suit, prioritising safer formulas. Enter HEMA-free gel polish – a term that’s been gaining a lot of buzz. But what exactly is HEMA? Why has it been a go-to in gel products, and do you really need to make the switch at your next appointment?
To help us navigate the conversation, we spoke with Ifra Siddique, Science and Compliance Director at The GelBottle Inc, to get the full scoop.
What does HEMA stand for?
‘When it comes to nails, HEMA, stands for Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate and is a chemical used in many gel polishes and acrylic nails,’ reveals Siddique.
What is HEMA in nail polish?
To get specific, HEMA is a type of monomer, which is a small molecule that can link together with other similar molecules to form a polymer.
‘In gel polish, HEMA is one of the key ingredients that allows the gel to cure (harden) under UV or LED light,’ schools Siddique.
‘Curing is caused by the polymerisation process, which is the chemical reaction that occurs between the monomers to form long chains, which result in the hardened formation of gel. The UV light initiates the reaction through photoinitiators. The reaction causes the network of molecules in the formula to become cross-linked together.’
Why is HEMA used?
‘The reason HEMA is so popular is due to its ability to create long lasting gel products. Its exceptional adhesive properties ensure the polish adheres well to the nail surface, extending the life of the manicure,’ reveal Siddique.
What is HEMA free gel polish?
‘HEMA is the most common photo-initiator in gel polish for various reasons, however, because of its extended use it can also be the most common (but not only) allergen. This has led to the development and rise in popularity of HEMA-free alternatives.’
While HEMA-free formulations aren’t brand new, their widespread availability and demand are relatively recent developments in the industry.
Realising how effective and valued the original BIAB formula is, The Gel Bottle felt it was important to deliver the same results for its customers when developing its HEMA-Free BIAB. It took the brand 24 months of development and over 100+ submissions to perfect its HEMA-Free BIAB formulas.
The HEMA-free range includes HEMA-free BIABs and gel polishes, as well as the HEMA-Free base and top coats.
‘It’s important to note that “HEMA-free” means the product is formulated without HEMA,’ adds Siddique. ‘We believe in transparency and clearly label our products so nail technicians and consumers can make informed choices. We are constantly researching and developing our formulas to provide high-quality, safe, and compliant options.’
The Gel Bottle isn’t the only brand to ride the HEMA free range; OPI, The Glitterbels and The Manicurist Green also offer HEMA free gels.
How to tell if you’re allergic to HEMA
Symptoms of a HEMA allergy can include the below. If you think you have an allergy then it’s best to consult your nail technician as soon as possible, who will then remove the product. It’s also important to note that an allergy can only be confirmed through an allergy test with a dermatologist. Here are some common symptoms:
- A bruise-like mark on the nails
- Blistering or peeling nails
- Nails become loose or start to lift
- Sensitivity
- Inflammation or swelling around the nail bed
- Itchy, red, and peeling skin
- Water blisters
So, is HEMA-free gel polish better?
HEMA-free gel polish is a game-changer for those with HEMA allergies, as it significantly reduces the risk of allergic reactions. With a gentler formula, it’s also a great choice for individuals with sensitive skin or nails, offering a safer alternative that doesn’t compromise on quality or longevity.
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Perdita Nouril is the Beauty Editor for Women’s Health UK. She has worked in the beauty industry for 15 years since graduating from the University of Nottingham. Adept at exploring the colossal world of beauty, she loves to scratch beneath the surface to debunk the myths, decode the science and challenge traditional notions of beauty. You can always find her preaching sermons on the power of a red lip, extolling the virtues of a decent serum and championing the very best female beauty founders.
You can find Perdita on Instagram on @perditanouril
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