What the state of your nails says about you – and how to make a better impression

Against the vibrant landscape of nail art, with its intricate designs and vivid lacquers, a quiet and refreshing revival has emerged – a new-found appreciation for the understated elegance of natural nails.

Often overlooked, our nails serve both as a canvas for projecting beauty, and a reflection of our overall health. But to understand how to care for them effectively, it’s crucial to grasp the intricacies of their structure. Nails are composed of keratin, a resilient protein also found in our hair and skin. They consist of distinct parts: the nail plate, which is the visible surface we paint and groom; the nail bed, or pinkish skin beneath the nail plate; the cuticle, a thin layer of skin protecting the nail’s base; and the matrix, a vital area hidden beneath the cuticle where new nail cells form.

Dior Vernis glossy long-wear nail polish. Photos: Handouts

According to Dr Tania Bardhan, senior spa director at Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel, various signs can divulge the status of your nails’ well-being. “The health of nails can often be told from their colour, the condition of the cuticles, and the condition of the skin around the nails,” she says. “Healthy nails look white or pink in colour with no pronounced signs of infection in or around the nail bed. Healthy nails also do not break easily.”

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They are sturdy and flexible, resistant to breakage and bending, and possess a smooth, even surface with a natural shine akin to a polished gem. Conversely, unhealthy nails tend to be thicker, more susceptible to breakage and may exhibit yellow, green or grey discolouration. Irregularities like ridges, dents or pitting can also signal underlying issues. “Some of the reasons for changed nail colour are overuse or the prolonged use of harsh products, developing infections, or repeated trauma,” Bardhan explains. “The skin around the nails may also start peeling or look red and inflamed.”

Glosslab Superboost vitamin-infused nail strengthener and hardener

While professional care and manicures are undeniably beneficial for nail health, at-home care is equally vital. Rachel Apfel Glass, founder of Glosslab, a membership-based mani-pedi salon, recognises how proper care can significantly impact nail health and aesthetics. Her salons across the US are at the forefront of modernising the manicure experience, emphasising hygiene, efficiency and waterless services that prioritise flawless polish and nail well-being.

“Many nail salon goers expect to see water bowls when they walk in to get their nails done and consider soaking their hands and feet to be a standard step in their mani-pedi,” Glass says.

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However, most people aren’t aware that traditional water bowls are breeding grounds for bacteria or that soaking leads to weaker, softer, temporarily expanded nails. Moreover, the average mani-pedi unnecessarily uses at least 45 litres of water. “Waterless services lead to better cuticle health and longer-lasting polish, all while saving water,” Glass says, adding that it doesn’t just improve the experience, but is also both more hygienic and more sustainable.

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Embarking on the journey to maintaining healthy and beautiful nails entails understanding essential principles and avoiding common mistakes. “We regularly advise our guests to not keep their gel polishes or regular polishes on for too long. Ideally, gels should be taken off after two weeks, followed by a gap of a few days or longer – depending on nail condition and health – before another gel application,” Bardhan says. She also suggests those dealing with dry cuticles regularly incorporate cuticle oil or coconut or almond oil at bedtime.

Paume moisturising antibacterial hand gel refill bag, travel bottle and at-home dispenser

For those seeking additional at-home support, nail strengtheners and conditioners are readily accessible. These formulations offer added protection and nourishment, featuring ingredients for damage repair and proteins to fortify the nail structure. For someone starting their journey, Glass recommends a nourishing nail strengthener and hardener like Glosslab’s Superboost treatment, fortified with biotin, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, rosemary and safflower oil.

As the demand for luxury treatments surges, brands are responding with solutions that prioritise hand and nail health. Paume offers luxury formulas focused on reviving and sustaining nails, while Dr’s Remedy products are designed to therapeutically support nails without the use of harmful chemicals. Furthermore, the rising demand for classic luxury products – like Dior’s Crème Abricot nail-strengthening cream and Hermès’ Les Mains nail and cuticle nourishing oil – in the past year shows a willingness among customers to invest in comprehensive nail care.

Dior Crème Abricot nail strengthening cream

While nail care basics are pivotal for maintaining nail health, dedicated spa-like treatments can elevate the experience and contribute to long-term well-being. At the Four Seasons Nail Bar, for instance, a comprehensive approach encompasses nail, hand and foot wellness in every menu offering. “We make sure that we don’t use machines to remove gel polish or use strong nail polish removers, which are known to damage nail beds and cuticles in the long term,” Bardhan says, emphasising that the main goal is to provide effective, fully customised luxury manicure treatments, even if it means the process takes longer.

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“Our expert nail technicians are trained to advise on the long-term health of nails,” she adds.

The Nail Bar at the Four Seasons Hong Kong

While many nail treatments and care tools involve topical products, nail health extends beyond external care. Various deficiencies can manifest in distinct ways through your nails: a lack of vitamin B12 might cause vertical ridges and bluish pigmentation, while iron deficiency can lead to brittle or spoon-shaped nails. Central ridges can indicate folic acid or protein deficiency; meanwhile, low vitamin C and folic acid can result in an increased frequency of hangnails.

In terms of diet and nutrition, numerous vitamins and minerals are particularly beneficial for nail health. Biotin, often referred to as vitamin H, is known for strengthening nails and reducing brittleness. Additionally, vitamin E is essential for maintaining healthy nails, as it promotes blood circulation to the nail bed, facilitating growth. At the same time, iron, zinc and omega-3 fatty acids contribute to your nails’ overall health and strength.

As the appreciation for nail care grows, there is an increasing demand for treatments that transcend the ordinary. Whether in the comfort of your home or the luxurious ambience of high-end nail studios, the allure of luxury treatments, from moisturising masks to intensive nail nourishment, is driving a revolution in self-indulgence within the realm of nail care.

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