Have you ever experienced a rash or skin irritation after using synthetic hair for braids? Was your scalp itchy to the point where you had to wash your hair or take out your style? Researchers might have unlocked the answer as to why this reaction could be happening.
When scientists at Consumer Reports tested synthetic braiding hair recently and announced they found chemicals in the strands, the findings sparked conversation online about what is safe when it comes to braiding your crown. The report said prolonged exposure to these chemicals presents a health threat to Black people because they are the most common users of the hair.
For researchers who study environmental harms when it comes to beauty products, it also underscored the everyday risks that Black people face when using hair and cosmetics that are largely unregulated and contain more toxic chemicals in them than products that are marketed to their white counterparts.
“These exposures are not just a one-off, but they add up,” said Elissia Franklin, an analytical chemist and research scientist at the Silent Spring Institute based in Massachusetts. “For instance, you have the chemicals that are in the braided hair now. But then you’re doing the baby hairs with the edge control. And now you’re adding on the mousse to manage the flyaways. And then you didn’t grease your scalp yet, so now you’re adding on the grease.”
“And then the lotion and the lip gloss,” Franklin said. “And adding the eyelash glue to your lash extensions, with perfume to top it off, all which may contain multiple chemicals of health concern.”
Black women represent approximately 14% of the total beauty industry market share; spending $473 million annually on hair care products alone — spending six times more than any other ethnic group. While members of all ethnic groups wear hair extensions, the cheaper, low-quality hair is often marketed to Black people and are sold almost exclusively within the Black community.
Scientists from Consumer Reports found carcinogens, or chemicals that may cause cancer. During testing of the synthetic braiding hair they discovered acetone, a volatile organic compound (VOC), or a combination of chemicals that evaporate in the air at room temperature. And researchers also found lead in the hair.
And while the lead levels that were found were very low, there is no safe amount of lead exposure. Over an extended period, it can cause health issues such as brain and nerve damage, reproductive issues in adults, and developmental problems in children.
How do chemicals go from the store shelf to your body?
So how do these chemicals get into our system? When solid matter goes through a chemical change, the ingredients can enter our system by being breathed in, by coming in contact with our skin or by being swallowed. These chemicals can be unwittingly absorbed multiple times throughout the day.
“People might be exposed to some of these chemicals in this report … through how the hair is treated,” said Alexa Friedman, a senior scientist at the Environment Working Group in Washington. “So when the hair is either heated up at any point during the application it’s possible that people can be exposed to the VOCs through breathing them in.”
Other ways of exposure can be more subtle. Scientists said the chemicals could be absorbed in the scalp or from tiny cuts in the hands, as well as inhaled when the synthetic hair is burned or if a person is eating while the braids are being installed. Once these chemicals are introduced into the system, they can remain for quite some time.
Exposure to these chemicals can have a dangerous impact on health. In the short term, the substances can cause scalp, skin, or throat irritation. Researchers said they found benzene and methylene chloride, and these chemicals have been linked to cancer.
In recent years, Nigerian scientists have tried to sound the alarm about the dangers of synthetic hair. In 2013, researchers at Federal University Wukari found that the most popular synthetic hair had high levels of heavy metals. And in 2022, researchers at Federal University of Technology, Owerri published a report signaling that the compounds could have a negative impact on women’s health.
When it comes to the motivation to invest such large amounts of money and time in these products, the reasons are more than skin deep.
Black women are subjected to more pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards or face workplace discrimination, despite 25 states passing The CROWN Act, which protects against discrimination based on hair texture. Black women with coily or curly hair are twice as likely to experience microaggressions in the workplace than Black women with straighter hair. Even getting products and services for curly or coiled hair costs more than straight hair. It’s called the “Afro Tax.”
Franklin of Silent Spring Institute said paying attention to the products that are used daily can decrease the risk of exposure.
“There are a lot of products we’re using every day that may contain harmful chemicals,” she added. “And so it’s about being more aware and intentional about what we’re putting on our bodies and exposing ourselves to.”
Alternatives to synthetic braiding hair
Black women are not out of options when it comes to hair braiding. There are several companies developing organic, earth-friendly hair extensions that give the same look and feel as synthetic hair.
Lillian Augusta Beauty sells plant-based hair bundles called “Hair Without Harm” that are derived from corn fibers. The Chicago-based company was co-founded by Jannice Newson in 2019 while she was studying environmental science at the University of Michigan.
Rebundle is another Black woman-owned, nontoxic, plant-based hair company. Based in St. Louis, Ciara Imani May started her company to relieve her own discomfort with braids.
And Kynd Hair, which is plastic-free, is set to make its debut in 2025. Growing up Black in Germany, Cosima Richardson, Kynd Hair’s founder and CEO, was always wearing braids. As an adult, she began to question the origins of her synthetic strands and started her company.
And for those who just can’t let go of the synthetic hair just yet, the good news is you don’t have to right away. Using synthetic hair can still be done safely:
- Increase ventilation by opening the windows or use an air purifier to get rid of those VOCs.
- Washing your hands frequently also helps reduce the transmission of toxins.
- Clean your braiding space as well.
Franklin also recommends taking breaks from synthetic braiding hair.
“I think anything you can do to try to just keep your air ventilated and reduce your direct contact can help,” she said. “Just taking a break in between or wearing it for shorter periods of time or choosing a safer alternative to synthetic hair would be good.”
The growing awareness of the dangers of the chemicals in synthetic hair has sparked critical conversations in the Black community about the intersection of health and environment.
The good news is that these conversations are also motivating Black women engineers and entrepreneurs to create safer alternatives that will not only sustain the earth but also our health. This shift is not just a trend, but a big step toward prioritizing health while maintaining traditional braiding styles.
This post was originally published on this site be sure to check out more of their content.
