Yang Mi Is Loewe’s New Brand Ambassador, Emerging Brands to See in Paris

MUSICAL CHAIRS: Is Usher the busiest man in Paris right now? The musician kicked off his concert residency at La Seine Musicale Sunday night, and is playing eight shows through fashion week. He also just announced that he will be the headliner at the upcoming Super Bowl, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

“I’ve got to get through this Paris residency first, and then I can get back to Vegas,” he said when asked how he’s preparing, after taking in the Marni show Wednesday.

Dressed in a bright red polka-dotted suit, he gamely sat front row balancing on the blow-up bouncy benches that snaked around the grounds of Karl Lagerfeld’s former home. The singer made the rounds of the main room, hugging Erykah Badu, chatting with a stylist that dressed him back in his “Star Search” days, and introduced himself to K-pop star Joshua from the supergroup Seventeen.

“I thought it was amazing. I mean the shapes, the use of color. The dresses and the paper-like materials, the suede and leather working together. It was really amazing, the music was the champion,” he said of the eclectic collection, which featured musicians with classical string instruments playing in each room.

Designer Francesco Risso showed fanciful floral dresses as well as simple shapes and cuts in a collection of contrast.

After stopping traffic — literally, and for blocks, outside with hundreds of poster-toting fans lining the narrow street — Joshua didn’t make much of a commotion inside. The Marni regular was relaxed and kept his cool, even in a houndstooth coat on the warmer-than-expected day.

A longtime brand fan, the group’s lead vocalist last attended the Marni show in Tokyo back in February.

“It was a lot different than last time,” he said. “The music was amazing, the clothing was amazing, the models were amazing — just everything was amazing. I loved the show.”

The group has a new album coming out in October. “It’s a short period of time. We’re coming out soon, so we’re really, really excited. Hopefully everyone likes it,” he added.

Issa Rae was shining like a ray of sunshine in a bright yellow oversized shirt and blazer combo. The “Barbie” star is attending her first Paris Fashion Week.

“I love bright colors. I tried a couple of different options, and this gave me an opportunity to show off what I’m working with,” she joked of the leg-baring cut.

While it was her first Paris Fashion Week, she has attended shows in New York City before. Rae joked that she had been photographed at an odd angle, and people turned it into a meme that made it appear she was making fun of front row fixture Lisa Rinna.

“I was just minding my business,” she said of the shot. “But later we saw each other on ‘Watch What Happens Live’ and she was so sweet.”

As for her first Paris Fashion Week? “I’m expecting vibes,” she said. “I’m usually working during this time — constantly — so I jumped at the opportunity. We’ve had a pause in our schedules so I had some time to attend, plus I love seeing artists and creative directors work, so I’m looking forward to watching magic happen.” Her plans don’t include hitting up any major landmarks, but instead eating her way through some best-restaurant lists.

Still she was clear that while she was taking advantage of her downtime, she is eager to be busy once again.

The actress addressed the ongoing Hollywood strike, following news that the Writers Guild has reached an agreement with studios. “I’m ready to get back to work, I’m not gonna lie. But we have time, so I’m continuing to support the SAG strike as well. I’m patient,” she said. — RHONDA RICHFORD

MI GENERATION: Cue pandemonium: At its spring 2024 fashion show on Friday during Paris Fashion Week, Loewe will welcome a new global brand ambassador: popular Chinese actress Yang Mi.

The 37-year-old has appeared in more than 65 films and television series, her fame propelled by roles in “Chinese Paladin 3” in 2009 and “Eternal Love” in 2017, for example.

“We’re really proud to be working with a cultural icon who inspires so many around the world,” said Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Loewe. “I can’t wait to see how Yang Mi’s multifaceted talent, style and bold spirit bring this collaboration to life.”

A graduate of the Beijing Film Academy, Mi is no stranger to fashion brands, and has been a face of Michael Kors, Versace and Victoria’s Secret in recent years.

She is regarded as one of the most successful and highest-paid Chinese actresses. She counts more than 112 million followers on the Chinese microblogging platform Weibo.

“Loewe has always been my favorite brand,” Yang said in a statement shared exclusively with WWD. “I like how its aesthetic exudes a distinct personality, how the brand expresses itself in such an artistic way, and I really appreciate Jonathan Anderson’s commitment to craftsmanship.

“Together with Loewe, I look forward to creating and sharing new avant-garde ideas on fashion,” she added.

Mi has a penchant for mixing high and low, couture and street, and a serious demeanor that stokes curiosity and adds to her mystique.

Loewe boasts an eclectic clutch of brand ambassadors, including K-pop sensation Taeyong, a member and leader of South Korean boy band NCT, Josh O’Connor, Taylor Russell, Leo Wu and Stephane Bak. — MILES SOCHA

YOUNG BLOOD: The Sphere showroom for emerging brands, run by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), opened its doors Wednesday at the Palais de Tokyo with a selection of five brands including two newcomers, French designer Lucille Thièvre and Rolf Ekroth, from Finland, both past finalists for the Hyères Prize.

Thièvre, who hails from France’s Southwest, cut her teeth at Hermès and Givenchy before creating her ultra-feminine namesake label in 2021. Since launching, she has been particularly successful Stateside after being picked up by Moda Operandi, among others, and is now ready to spread her wings.

Her spring 2024 collection, inspired by the polka-dot dress the designer’s mother wore to get married, was full of rounded shapes or hand knits that contrasted with her slinky body-con aesthetic, adorned with quirky buttons and beads handcrafted by a glassmaker, for example. “I really want to highlight craftsmanship,” she explained. “It’s been a journey accompanying the artisans to scale up production as demand grows.”

Rolf Ekroth, for his part, shows in Copenhagen and is known for his multidimensional approach. Already on the opening morning of Sphere, his designs had attracted the attention of a major buying team from China.

The return of Chinese retailers to Paris — and their seeming appetite to spend — saw organizers breathe a sigh of relief, meanwhile.

The other labels participating, all also showing on the official Paris calendar, are Benjamin Benmoyal and Florentina Leitner, whose presentations were held respectively on Monday and Tuesday, and Maitrepierre, with a show and presentation on Friday.

Thanks to a partnership with the FHCM, Sphere is also showcasing FabriX, a digital initiative developed by Hong Kong-based creative hub PMQ, sponsored by the Hong Kong administration and designed to support emerging brands.

The concept involves a kiosk equipped with augmented reality technology allowing guests to “try on” looks from the designers involved — the version set up at Sphere features creations from 12 Hong Kong designers as well as three based in France and supported by the FHCM’s incubator: Florentina Leitner, Ponder.er — itself originally from Hong Kong — and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi. — ALEX WYNNE

CREATIVE VIBE: Zalando has named Morten Grubak to the newly created role of vice president of creative direction. The retailer said he will be responsible for the overarching look and feel of the Zalando brand, the customer journey, and all consumer touchpoints.

Grubak joins Zalando from the Vice Media group, where he headed the Global Innovation Lab of the Virtue agency. 

Zalando said that under his leadership, Virtue launched “industry-defining work at the intersection of culture and technology.” At Virtue, Grubak worked with major international brands and organizations and also coauthored The Screenwear Paper, a global report on consumer perceptions of virtual goods.

He will join Zalando on Oct. 1, and report to Anne Pascual, senior vice president of product design. 

Pascual, who oversees design, marketing and content at Zalando, said Grubak’s appointment is part of an ambition “to make Zalando an emotion- and story-led brand, and a destination where customers get inspired. Morten brings an impressive creative track record, with many of his projects being recognized as groundbreaking within the industry.”

Grubak’s appointment comes ahead of Zalando’s launch of a luxury boutique-style space, similar to a designer floor in a department store, but on screen.

As reported, the new space will open in the fourth quarter of 2023 and have an “elevated, clean look and feel,” according to Lena-Sophie Roeper, Zalando’s director for designer and luxury.

The company has plans to add new brands to the space, although it has not specified any names.

Zalando already has a high-end offer, and carries around 300 contemporary and luxury labels. It stocks names such as Missoni, Marni, Victoria Beckham, Roksanda, Erdem and David Koma. It also launched an exclusive capsule collection with Paco Rabanne (now Rabanne) in April.

“We see it as a luxury floor of our digital department store, an ecosystem where customers get inspired and luxury brands feel at home,” Roeper said during an interview at Copenhagen Fashion Week over the summer. — SAMANTHA CONTI

AWARDING FASHION: Designer Valentino Garavani will receive the Outstanding Achievement prize at The Fashion Awards, which take place in London on Dec. 4 at Royal Albert Hall.

The British Fashion Council, which organizes the awards event, a fundraiser for students and emerging designers, said the couturier was receiving the award for his “groundbreaking couture creations” and red carpet gowns.

“His extraordinary designs, dedication to craftsmanship, ubiquitous branding and business acumen have left an indelible mark on the fashion world and cemented him as a legend of haute couture,” the BFC said Wednesday.

The designer said he has been “fortunate to witness the transformative power of fashion,” over the years.

“I am incredibly grateful for the opportunities I have had. To be honored in London, one of my most beloved cities, makes this momentous occasion even more special,” added the designer who spends much of his time in the British capital at his art-filled home in Chelsea.

Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of the British Fashion Council, described Garavani as a “revolutionary who has set new standards of excellence, and inspired generations of designers. We look forward to celebrating him in London.”

The Outstanding Achievement Award recognizes the creative contribution of an individual to the fashion industry, who throughout their career “has constantly shaped and reshaped the fashion world through their innovation and creativity,” according to the BFC.

Previous winners include Patagonia’s Yvon Chouinard, Giorgio Armani, Miuccia Prada, Ralph Lauren, Karl Lagerfeld, Anna Wintour, Terry and Tricia Jones and Manolo Blahnik to name only a few. — S.C.

FASHION RETROSPECTIVE: Alexander Wang this week unveiled its first retrospective fashion exhibition “Edge: exploring the worlds of Alexander Wang” at the plaza of Beijing’s luxury shopping complex Sanlitun Taikoo Li.

Running from Sept. 27 to Oct. 25, the exhibition, which is a stone throw’s away from the brand’s renovated flagship, presents a selection of key archival and current pieces, curated by the Chinese American designer himself to demonstrate the brand’s signature use of subversive elements, irony and hybrid-design concepts.

“Since 2012 when we opened our flagship store in Sanlitun, the immense support has been incredible and we’re so grateful to the city of Beijing for that. In many ways, this feels like a homecoming but also the perfect space to launch our first exhibit. Sanlitun is also a popular shopping destination, so we’re so excited to be a part of that energy because that’s a part of who we are,” Wang said.

He counted the safety pin top with layered stack belt from the 2019 New America collection, the micro pleated top and pants from the spring 2015 collection, and the allover crystal jacket, sweatshirt and slop skirt from the fall 2023 collection as three of his favorite looks on display.

“We wanted to celebrate what the brand is and how it has grown over time while also looking into the future, which is played out in the architecture and exhibition design. To me, the brand is about being daring, energetic and unconventional, and at the core, it’s challenging the conformity in luxury…always being on the edge of something new and unexpected,” said the designer, who grew up in California with parents from Shanghai.

China is now the brand’s biggest market with 25 stores in the region, representing more than half of the brand’s global retail network. The brand has been growing at a fast pace in the market since it sold minority stakes to two Chinese investors, fashion conglomerate Youngor Group, and venture capital firm Challenjers Capital, last year.

The designer said he is “honored and really thrilled by the overwhelming excitement from our China-based fans and followers.”

In an earlier interview, Wang disclosed that the business has grown about 80 percent between 2020 and 2022, and China alone has seen triple-digit growth, close to 150 percent.

“We wanted to take this as an opportunity to show our love and appreciation for everyone. This exhibit has been a long time coming and with that we see this exhibit as the perfect occasion to build upon — bridging our two worlds into one,” Wang added. — TIANWEI ZHANG

SHE’S BACK: Kimora Lee Simmons on Friday is introducing Baby Phat’s latest collection for fall, her first independent launch since buying back the brand in 2019. 

The collection was designed by Simmons, chief executive officer, alongside her daughters, Ming and Aoki. The duo’s roles have shifted from being the brand’s public faces to working behind the scenes across roles of design and creative direction. 

“Ming and Aoki’s involvement in the design process has added a personal touch and a contemporary edge to our collections. We are more in tune with the current fashion landscape while staying true to the essence of Baby Phat that people have loved for years,” Simmons told WWD.

“Since acquiring the label back in 2019, it’s been an incredible journey of rediscovery. The collaboration with Ming and Aoki has injected fresh perspectives and energy into the brand. Their involvement has bridged generations, creating a unique synergy that resonates with today’s fashion-conscious consumers,” Simmons said.

The collection includes a range of women’s ready-to-wear spanning from denim, cargo layers, miniskirts and rhinestone baby T-shirts to redesigned, signature velour tracksuits. Drawing inspiration from early 2000s streetwear and hip-hop culture — hallmarks of the label since its launch in 1999 — the collection was designed with modern updates to cater to “all the OG Baby Phat girlies as well as the new generation of Baby Phat customers.”

“The Baby Phat customer of today is confident, bold and celebrates individuality through fashion. They appreciate authentic, high-quality pieces that reflect their unique style, and our price range of $50 to $100 caters to their diverse tastes,” said Simmons.

The Baby Phat fall collection will be available exclusively on the brand’s direct-to-consumer site (previously, collections have been released with partners such as Puma, Macy’s and Forever 21).

Following Friday’s launch, Lee Simmons said the brand has upcoming collaborations and expanded product offerings in the works. 

“Keep an eye out for more exciting new releases from Baby Phat including our bestsellers redesigned in the ’99 Classics drop coming in a trilogy of drops in the next few weeks,” Simmons said. — EMILY MERCER

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