I’m allergic to gel nail varnish and thought I’d never be able to get a manicure again

During the spring of 2023, I endured any nail art lovers worst fear – no, I didn’t chip a tip but instead, developed an allergy to not only gel polish but regular varnish, too. *Insert dramatic duff duffs, collective sighs and all things bad, here*

But ‘how’ and ‘why’ after 24 years on this Earth did my hands decide to swell and break out in contact dermatitis rashes after one round of gel LED curing? Well, like many across the globe, I fell victim to an at-home do-it-yourself kit. And yes, while these can save you money if they’re not used correctly – aka, if the polish isn’t cured/set under the UV lamp accurately or sufficiently enough – it can lead the skin to become sensitised to the gel’s chemicals. Needless to say, I was in a rush during one Friday night pre-out out nail sesh…

Read more about the spike in allergies, here and pls, proceed with caution!

“We call this Allergic Contact Dermatitis. A type of reaction to a specific chemical which is lifelong due to the skin’s memory,” says Dr Emma Wedgeworth.

While this mainly occurs after incorrect use of gel-based products (and more specifically, their ‘acrylate’ ingredients), I developed an allergy to HEMA as well; This is an ingredient also found in regular varnish formulas. Sad reacts only.

I, myself am still none-the-wiser as to how or why this further reaction developed but my intuition tells me it’s a result of constant gel re-application post-allergy development… (I was, clearly, in denial before the pain became inescapable.)

Now, after a whole lot of ‘woe is me’ and a long hiatus from fortnightly manis, I discovered that alternatives were, in fact, available. Unfortunately, press-ons and the adhesives for these tend to have acrylate formulations but one brand which steers clear of all the ‘bad stuff’ (that is, in my innocent, allergic eyes, anyway) is Manucurist, who, in other words, is my life-long saviour. Fingertip speaking.

The brand’s now-owner, Gaëlle Labrat Personnaz tells Cosmopolitan UK that it was her mother who first opened a first nail salon back in 1996 which she called Manucurist. “Through the years I watched her work, I became very fond of the social aspect that came with this “self-care moment” but was always put off by the harsh smell of the solvents and the noises of gel and acrylics being drilled off,” she says.

“I helped my mother develop the business while I worked in the fashion industry until I eventually took over in 2016.”

Setting them apart from the likes of big-name nail polish brands we all know and love, Gaëlle says that Manucurist’s USP is “more health-focused and accessible to those who don’t always have time and money to go to a salon.

“My main goal overall was to find a clean and harm-free alternative to traditional gel polishes. Something that could be removed easily and damage-free, featuring a plant-powered formula free from controversial ingredients.”

So, after around two years in the research and development process, the brand worked to invent nail varnish that the market had never seen before; high shine, bold colour, long-lasting, damage-free, vegan, plant-based, instant dry, and above all, an easy removal process without acetone. All of these have been formulated without controversial or allergy-inducing molecules.

‘Twas at this moment, I knew my prayers had been answered…

Enter: Green Flash; the first LED gel-polish alternative, that applies and dries instantly, wears up for 10 days, features high shine and can be removed in one minute without acetone. Can I get an audible ‘wow’?

Not to mention their regular ‘Green’ line, which is an advanced version of a traditional style polish that air dries. (And is also free from sensitising chemicals.)

Although at first sceptical, I put my trust (and fingers) in the hands of Manucurist to find that when using, I had no allergic reaction – What. So. Ever!

And while not a science girly myself (physics GCSE was my downfall… and chemistry… and biology), the studies behind the brand speak for themselves. As Gaëlle tells me, “Green flash is formulated with polymers and photoreactive molecules that, when placed under an LED light to cure, react together to create a hard, shiny gel-like lacquer on the nails.

“This uses the same science as traditional gel, but we replaced harmful acrylate monomers, which are very small, reactive and volatile. Instead, we used polymers which are larger and safer, as they do not penetrate the skin barrier and will not induce acrylate allergies.”

I never thought I’d see the day when I could, once again, match my nails to my fave tube line… big up the central line, always.

Despite Green Flash being Manucurist’s prized innovation, they really are more than that. Changing the nail industry one swipe at a time by focusing on health, the environment, cutting-edge shades, treatments, tools and more!

Plus, the coming year is no different because Gaëlle tells Cosmo UK that in 2024, Manucurist will be releasing new collections, glitters, shades and some of our most innovative health-focused creations, yet.

TAKE MY MONEY!

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