Ugly side of nail beauty: The silent killers in stick-ons, acrylics, gels and excess filing

Last week, during my routine nail appointment, I found myself entranced by the sight of another woman’s nails. They were unnervingly dark, a stark contrast to the vibrant colours around us. Curiosity gnawed at me, and I couldn’t resist asking my nail technician, “Why are her nails like that?”

She glanced at the woman’s hands and replied with a mix of concern and knowledge.

“When you use glue not meant for nails, it puts immense pressure on the nail bed. The reaction can cause the nails to turn color. The glue hardens like stone, and with the added strain from daily activities, the nail bed darkens over time.”

This revelation stirred a thought—how can one truly tell if their nails are healthy?

Paul Waweru, a seasoned nail technician at PJ Nails Clinic in Nairobi, provided an intriguing answer.

“A simple test to check nail health is observing blood circulation,” he explained, his voice rich with experience. “If you press on the nail plate for a few seconds and release, you should see blood flow back into the nail bed. If it takes longer or if blood oozes out, then that nail is in trouble.”

The state of our nails speaks a silent language, warning us of deeper issues.

Paul added, “If your nails are extremely sensitive when you touch water, they’re sending you a message. And when you start noticing small veins appearing on your nails, it’s time to consult a specialist.

It may seem trivial, but you’re interfering with the nail’s attachment. The next stage could be a gap forming between the nail and the bed, and recovery from that might be impossible.”

While we often associate the dangers of nail care with chemicals and improper treatments, the tools we use can be just as harmful. Paul, with the air of someone who has seen it all, identified the most dangerous culprits in our manicure kits.

“The first and most perilous tool is the nail or cuticle nipper,” Paul warned. This small instrument with its curved jaws is designed to trim excess cuticles, but it can do more harm than good if used excessively.

“The cuticle acts like a door, a barrier that protects your nails from infection. When it’s trimmed too much, you’re leaving that door wide open for bacteria, dirt, and fungi to invade.”

Second on the list of offenders is the electric nail file. It might seem harmless, even convenient, but its potential for damage is significant.

“You’ll feel it if the filing is excessive—the file produces heat,” Paul said, his tone cautionary. This heat, if not managed properly, can weaken the nail, leaving it vulnerable to further damage.

But the true silent killer, according to Paul, is the buffer. This seemingly gentle tool, designed to smooth and shine the nail surface, can destroy a nail without anyone realising it.

“It’s so soft that neither the technician nor the client notices when too much filing has occurred,” Paul explained. “The damage is only visible later, when the nail becomes bumpy and uneven.”

Janet Mwangi, the founder of Jada Kenya, has seen the dark side of beauty in her work. She explained how gel and acrylic nails, popular for their durability and aesthetic appeal, can pose hidden risks.

“The first sign that your nails are reacting badly to gel or acrylics is the hardening of the onychodermal band,” Janet shared. This band, often referred to as the natural smile line, is crucial in preventing external matter and pathogens from entering beneath the nail. “When it hardens, it’s a sign that something is wrong.”

Janet’s expertise shines as she describes other warning signs.

“If, every time you apply gel, your nails start to itch, the area around them swells, and you develop blisters—then you’re likely developing an allergy to the product. And if you find relief only after removing the gel, it’s a clear indication.”

She also pointed out the dangers of acrylics, particularly if your nail plate falls off after removing stick-ons, leaving a small, exposed nail.

“That’s a sign the acrylics are causing serious damage,” Janet warned. Even nail technicians aren’t immune—those allergic to gel polish might develop an itchy rash upon contact, a condition known as contact dermatitis.

In Kenya, Janet highlighted a rising issue among women—separated nails. This condition, where the natural nail detaches from the nail bed, is becoming increasingly common.

“The causes vary,” Janet explained, “from allergic reactions to products, to aggressive cleaning under the nail plate that breaks the protective band and inflicts trauma.”

Following close behind are splitting nails, which break at a particular point repeatedly or refuse to grow past a certain length.

“These splits run vertically, from top to bottom,” Janet said, her voice tinged with concern. “They’re often caused by underlying health conditions, trauma, or exposure to harsh chemicals in detergents.”

Another troubling condition is peeling nails, where the layers of the nail peel off like the skin of an onion.

“This can be due to hereditary factors, underlying health conditions, or trauma,” Janet explained. “Poor removal of nail enhancements can also contribute.”

Janet also noted the contrast between hard, brittle nails, which make a distinctive ta-ta-ta sound when cut, and soft, bendy nails that break or bend easily.

“The former is often hereditary, while the latter can result from overuse of nail enhancements or improper care.”

Nails are more than just a canvas for creativity—they’re a barometer of our overall health and well-being. By paying attention to the silent signals they send, we can prevent minor issues from becoming major problems.

Whether it’s choosing the right products, being cautious with tools, or simply taking the time to care for our nails properly, the message is clear: listen to what your nails are trying to tell you, and they’ll thank you with strength and beauty.